Mountain Weather

With the end of summer we have experienced some dramatic weather. The usual end of season thunder storm struck in mid September causing flooding and mayhem across the region. On the day of the storm I had a large group out and was due to lead them from the hostal at Hoya de la Mora across to the Poqueira Refuge crossing the Sierra Nevada at about 3,000m. As I drove up the mountain in the early morning it was clear that a storm was brewing with thunder and flashes of lightning around the area. The group was the first of two from the Territorial Army reservists out on an adventure training exercise. I met them and after a bit of discussion we decided that we would set off on the trip. So with most of the group wearing full waterproofs we headed out in heavy rain which surprisingly began to ease up as we climbed. By the time we reached the Carahuela refuge, a small bivouac hut below Veleta we were able to take gear off and dry out as the sun began to break through. It wasn’t until I returned home the next day I realised how big the storm had been. Lanjaron had been flooded out and suffered some damage. Other villages however had suffered much worse and further a field the storm had even caused a couple of deaths. At first it seemed strange that we had managed to do any walking at all however I realised that by being at height in the mountains meant that we had in effect been above the worst of the storm. At 3,000m, our highest point of the day there was about 2km of stormy weather between us and the villages below. This was wasn’t the first time this affect has happened to me. Much earlier in the year having left my car above Capileira I was at the Poqueira Refuge with a small group. We woke to a covering of a couple of inches of fresh snow. Even though the snow stopped falling by the time we got back down it was a couple of feet deep, meaning my car was effectively snowed in. Lesson learned. The weather over the coming season dramatically alters the nature of the Sierra Nevada and other mountain ranges in the area. Over summer, settled conditions mean that you can feel fairly safe going into the high mountains without too much worry. Winter weather conditions can turn fairly benign mountain trips into serious alpine outings where you need to be prepared for extreme conditions. Spanish forecasting has improved in the past few years so before you go out you can get a good idea of what to expect. Personally I use http://www.aemet.es for general forecasts and http://www.mountain-forecast.com for the higher peaks. Both are well worth a look.

Winter walking skills

As I write this in late November it would seem that winter has finally arrived. The fire is on and we’ve had two days of rain which I hope will be falling as snow on the high mountains. All bodes well for some good winter walking at last. So far this season I’ve already experienced a white out and hail storm on a Mulhacen ascent in early November followed by a superb ascent with crisp white snow under a blue sky later that month. The first ascent was miserable, the second one of those days when it was a dream to be in the mountains. For me walking in the under a clear blue sky in snow covered mountains is perhaps the best way to experience the high peaks. Many summer walkers are very wary of setting out in winter and whilst clearly it is more difficult and possibly more dangerous a few basic skills and some common sense means that it can be open to all with reasonable experience and fitness. There is a saying amongst UK walkers that there is no such thing as bad weather only bad gear. To a certain extent that’s true and certainly you need better and more gear for winter than summer walking. Good boots and waterproofs are essential as are enough layers of clothing to keep you warm. One of the main issues in the Sierra Nevada is high wind speed which due to wind chill can dramatically drop the temperatures particularly on exposed ridges and mountain sides. Whilst not as dramatic as in the UK winter days are shorter than in summer so carrying a head torch in your rucksack (along with spare batteries) is useful as are spare gloves and hats Snow and weather conditions vary a great deal from day to day so keeping an eye on the forecast is essential. Whilst on the mountain conditions change quickly, snow moved by strong winds can create areas of ’’wind slab’’ on lee slopes which are often prone to avalanche. Good route planning and navigation skills are more important than at other times of the year. A safe winter route may not be the same as one done in clear summer conditions when following a GPS. For those who want to gain more winter mountaineering experience and learn skills such as safe use of ice axes, creating snow shelters and avalanche awareness in early February together with colleagues at Sierra Nevada Guides I am running a Winter Mountaineering Skills Course. Contact me for more details or see the link from my website.

Climbing Mulhacen in Autumn and Early Winter

Summer has now departed in the Sierra Nevada and the first snows of autumn have already fallen.  Snow in September and October rarely stays very long, often melting overnight. This short article is intended to give some pointers about how to tackle Mulhacen in normal Autumn conditions i.e. before there is a build up of permanent snow on the west ridge and face.

Mulhacen Summit

The normal way to tackle Mulhacen in a day is by catching the National Park bus from Capileira up past the “barrier” at Hoya del Portillo and up to Mirrador Trevelez 2800m. This bus usually ceases to run in October (check with the information office in Capileira for the latest bus schedule), but it is possible to drive up to the road head at Hoya del Portillo.  If the road up to Hoya is blocked by snow, then don’t contemplate climbing Mulhacen in a day.

Mulhacen in a day from Hoya del Portillo

4 to 5 hours in ascent from 2100m to 3482m.

Before any ascent of Mulhacen you should ascertain the actual conditions on the mountain and look at the weather forecast. The hut guardian of the Poqueira Refuge posts weekly updates as to conditions on the mountain throughout the winter months.

Here is a useful weather forecast for Mulhacen.

Take note of the wind strength as high winds can make progress slow and even lead to having to retreat.

From Hoya del Portillo, take a path that leads from behind the guards hut, up through the forest to join the firebreak just beneath the viewpoint of Puerto Molino.

At Puerto Molino looking towards Mulhacen

From Puerto Molino to Mirador Trevelez, the nicest way is to take the small path leading up to the ridge passing the minor summit of Prado Llano 2577m, eventually joining the dirt track road prior to reaching Mirrador Trevelez (where the summer bus stops). Alternatively you may follow the dirt track road from Puerto Molino.

Continue along the dirt track road for a further 600m until you reach a junction. Left leads towards the Poqueira Refuge. Here we leave the dirt track road which continues to the Caldera Refuge and take a path on the right which leads up the south ridge of Mulhacen.

As you ascend you are looking at the lower summit of Mulhacen 3361m with a trig point on top.  The actual summit is around 20 minutes beyond.

Descent

If there is snow lying, the safest descent is by returning back down the south ridge.

If there is no snow then the path down the west face to near the Caldera is an option.  This leads back to the dirt track road which can be followed back towards Mirrador Trevelez.

 Never underestimate Mulhacen. Just because it is a “walk” in summer conditions, in deteriorating weather, snow and ice, navigation can be difficult and the going underfoot treacherous.  Always go properly equipped for the conditions. Remember the days are getting shorter and take a torch. If you are uncertain, contact us and discuss the possibility of hiring a qualified International Mountain Leader.

Sierra Nevada Guides are the only qualified British guides operating in Spain’s Sierra Nevada Mountains and Alpujarra.