Undiscovered Routes

One of the great things about walking in this area is that not many other people do it. Routes are not massive erosion scars as in the popular areas of the UK and you can walk without crowds of people. It also means that routes are still out there to be found and whilst it might not be the first time they are walked often it is clear that they are little used. This happened to me recently when I ‘’discovered ‘’ a new route following the line of an acequia in the Rio Trevelez valley. I first spotted the line of what I though at the time might make a great walk during last summer. I was a passenger in a coach full of clients returning from a days walking near Trevelez. Returning back down the valley I saw a clear straight line running across the cliff face on the mountain side which creates the south side of this rugged valley. Later in the year when I was this time driving down the road I managed to stop and inspect the line using a pair of binoculars , even from a distance it looked like a dramatic line but it was still not clear that is would ‘’go’’ . I finally got around to going out to actually having a look last week and finally discovered that the line I had seen threading its way through steep cliffs and scrub was in fact an acequia and that it could indeed be walked. I set off along what was at first a fairly wide concrete channel crossing open hillside. On turning the first corner it became clear that the line was going to be more than a normal acequias walk. The channel has been cut through steep cliffs, passes below overhangs, is in places pinned to vertical rock sections and includes a couple of natural rock archways. The second of these is so tight that it required removing my rucksack and a squirming along the bottom of the acequias in order to continue the route. For some , my wife included it sounds like the worst possible sort of walk but if you have a head for heights the km or so of channel makes a wonderful walk. The dramatic section of what turns out to be the Acequia Almegijar comes to an end on a waymarked path running through the area called the ‘’Ruta Medieval’’. This trail links the white villages through the Taha area of the Alpujarra valley and is worth seeking out in its own right.

Walking the acequias of the Alpujarra

Many of us who live in the countryside areas around the Sierra Nevada rely upon the acequia system to bring us much needed water. For those not in the know, acequias are man-made water channels which run throughout the area bringing water to lower agricultural land They are often essential, allowing us to grow fruit and veg., fill swimming pools (perhaps illegally) shower or even wash the car.

Thought to have been fully developed by the Moors when they ruled the area, the system probably reaches further back into history. It seems obvious that digging channels to route water to where it was most needed must have gone on for millennia in order to make the most of what is a precious resource. The system has spread across the whole of the region with hundreds of channels creating a massive irrigation system that feeds the whole of the area. On my hillside alone there are four major acequias channels. The Acequia Alta which ultimately feeds my cortijo, runs directly from the Rio Lanjaron at about 1,400m and traverses the hillside before it finishes above the Tablate gorge about whole 10km from its start. En route, sluices allow the water to be managed and fed down a network of smaller and smaller channels before ultimately watering my lettuce.

When walking in the region most of us will have come across acequias. Often with a path alongside, they can provide relatively easy walking routes along steep hillsides and river valleys reaching into the mountain ranges of the area. Whilst providing easy graded walks, they sometimes have short steep sections where the channel itself will be sent down rock outcrops in order to change the level at which it runs. Sometimes however they give much more dramatic walking as they pass through rather than down an outcrop. If you do come across these sections it seems incredible that the original builders had the skill to create these parts of the system. I must admit I actually seek out some of the more dramatic bits and have found many during my exploration of the area.

Some of the best are actually on the Acequia Alta where about 2km from the river the acequia clings to high cliffs above a vertical drop of about 50m. These sections are unfenced and if crossed when the water is flowing are breathtaking. Another dramatic section is found in the Rio Chillar gorge near Nerja. Here the acequia cuts through cliffs high on the east side of the valley. The ‘’path’’ is about a foot wide and runs around the cliffs as the water channel itself runs through on a narrow tunnel. Even though these sections are fenced they still need a good head for heights.
Perhaps one the most used routes is that through the Monachil Gorge. Here though, you may not know it, the channel is covered for most of its length and the acequia takes you through dramatic natural rock scenery.

The Best Path in the World! Spring Walks in The Alpujarra and Sierra Nevada

The Best Path in the World!

Spring Walks in The Alpujarra and Sierra Nevada

Sierra Nevada Guides, spring walking season of is in full swing at the moment with several groups on “back to back” holidays in The Alpujarra and Sierra Nevada.  The weather in Spain two weeks ago was unseasonably hot which brought the flowers out slightly earlier than usual and making for superb walking holidays which our guests have been enjoying.

Always a favourite is a walking circuit in an area of the Alpujarra known as the Ta Ha. Starting at the pretty white village of  Fondales the route we follow takes us through Ferreirola and past a “fizzy” spring of naturally occurring carbonated water  before ascending to Busquistar.

Spring Walking in The TaHa

On this section of the walk we pass through terraces as well as spectacular crag scenery. One of the features of the Alpujarra region is the "aira" a flat section of land, usually on a promontory where the wheat and cereals were "thrashed."

Ferreirola with an "aira" in the foreground

At Busquistar we descend into the ravine and take a spectacular medieval path which has been hewn out of the steep craggy hillside. The route now follows a road for a short distance before taking a forest track towards the medieval Arab water tank at Aguila.

The final descent down another medieval cut path is surely one of the best and most spectacular paths in the world! In places the path has been hewn out of the rock whilst in parts it is held in place by ancient stone walls that seem to hang off the steep craggy hillside.  And it gets better with a Roman bridge crossing the river at the bottom.

The Best Path in the World!

 All that remains is the ascent back up to Fondales and a well earned beer at our favourite bar in the village of Mecina.

Although a strenuous walk due to the two steep ascents, it is a relatively short

(12k) walk.  We always tell clients that it their holiday and there are no prizes for being first! At a leisurely pace we complete the route in 5 to 6 hours. A Ramblers grade of A2.

Sierra Nevada Guides are a company of Qualified British International Mountain Leaders and rock climbing Instructors.

International Mountain Leaders in Spain's Sierra Nevada

International Mountain Leaders in Spain's Sierra Nevada

It’s great being able to work as an International Mountain Leader, meeting like minded people and using our local knowledge of the Sierra Nevada and Alpujarra to ensure that they enjoy the very best walks in the safest possible way.

Martin enjoying being the patient on a Wilderness 1st aid course

However there’s more to being an International Mountain Leader than holding a qualification. Once qualified we can only practice if we are in possession of a valid “wilderness” 1^st aid certificate, have appropriate insurance cover and undertake a minimum of 2 days additional training each year known as Continuous Professional Development (CPD). And that’s in addition to getting the qualification in the first place!

In the last year we have attended 4 days of CPD at both Plas y Brenin the National Mountaineering Centre and whilst attending the BAIML annual conference in Fort William. Subjects have included: Geology, Glaciation, The Mountain Environment, Ecology and Assessing People in the Mountains.

(BAIML = The British Association of International Mountain Leaders).

"Refresher" ropework training organised by BAIML

The purpose of CPD is both to demonstrate that we are keeping our skills current and also to expand our knowledge to share with clients in the mountains. It’s these “soft skills” that give an added extra to the experience of hiring a qualified guide.

Sierra Nevada guides have also been involved in organising and delivering CPD training for both BAIML members and the Mountain Leader Training Association (MTA).

Night Navigation Training for BAIML organised by Sierra Nevada Guides

To become an IML through the British scheme, you first need to hold a British Mountain Leader qualification. Then with substantial experience in the larger mountains of the alps and further afield you can apply to join the IML scheme. This involves: a summer training course in Wales with a speed navigation test; a summer assessment in the alps that includes a fitness test; a winter training course in the alps; and finally a winter assessment in either the alps or Pyrenees.

It’s quite a long and expensive route to become a qualified IML, which is a qualification recognised throughout Europe (including Spain). 

To our knowledge, Sierra Nevada Guides are the only qualified British IML’s based in the Sierra Nevada and Alpujarra.

Flowers of Spain's Sierra Nevada Mountains

Flowers of the Sierra Nevada

Although I’m no expert on flowers, my work as a guide in Spain’s Sierra Nevada brings me close to nature.  The flowers of the Sierra Nevada are amazingly diverse as the National and Natural parks span a wide altitude difference with climatic zones from Mediterranean to Alpine.  Also different parts of the Sierra have different geology that also adds to the diverse spread of species.

Trumpet Gentian (Gentiana acaulis) with Plantago Nivalis - The Star of the Snows

Sierra Nevada Violet, Viola Crassiuscula 

There are many species and sub-species that are endemic to the Sierra Nevada, including:

Chaenorrhinum Glareosum     Blue Dreams                                     

Erigeron Frigidus                    Cold Fleabane                        

Artemisia Granatensis             Mountain Camomile                        

Arenaria Nevadensis

Viola Crassiuscula                  The Sierra Nevada Violet                                   

Saxifrage Nevadensis

Pinguicula Nevadensis            Thin Spurred Butterwort

Gentiana Boryi

Gentiana Sierrae

Plantago Nivalis                      The Star of the Snows

Additionally there are many species common to other areas too.

hormathophylla spinosa known locally as "rascaculos"

I have two favourite areas for spotting plants:

Gentiana Sierae, endemic to the borreguiles

1.

The “borreguiles” which are areas of wet pastures besides streams and small lakes  at around 2700m to 3000m (typically Siete Lagunas).

Here you will find various gentians and the amazing Star of the Snows which is a woolly plantain.

Ranunculus acetosellifolius, endemic to the Sierra Nevada

2.

The high boulder and scree fields at around 3000m to 3400m (typically Alcazaba)

This is where you will find Blue Dreams, The Sierra Nevada Violet and the Cold Fleabane.

Thin Spurred Butterwort, Pinguicula Nevadensis endemic

There is no doubt that the best time to come and see the alpine flowers is early July.  This is when the snow has mostly melted and there is plenty of moisture coupled with the warm long days. There are some nice spots accessible from the Poqueira Refuge, the Rio Seco, Rio Mulhacen and Siete Laguna’s.  The Rio Mulhacen and Siete Laguna’s are possible as a day trip using the National Park bus from Capileira. (details from Sierra Nevada Guides website).

St Bruno's Lilly, Paradisia liliastrum (not endemic) 

If you are venturing into the high mountains to see the stunning wild flowers, remember that these are serious mountains. It is likely that there will still be snow patches to cross in July and as in all mountain environments the weather can prove problematic with frequent high (cold) winds, mist and the occasional storm.

Sierra Nevada Guides are always happy to advise on conditions.

Sierra Nevada Guides are the only company of qualified British International Mountain Leaders operating in Spain’s Sierra Nevada and Alpujarra.

Walking in The Alpujarra

Walking in the Alpujarras

Having walked extensively throughout the U.K., Europe and in Morocco, I can honestly say that walking in Spain’s Alpujarra is up there with the best! To just say that there are pretty villages and scenic valleys would not do the area justice.

Busquistar and the Taha Gorge

The walking often begins from one of the many whitewashed villages first established by the Berber’s of North Africa when Spain was ruled by Arab kings. The architecture of these villages being identical to the villages of Morocco’s Atlas Mountains. Flat roofs and distinct decorative chimneys make an amazing sight when wandering down the steep narrow streets of the villages that often seem to cling to the hillside.

Paths take you through cultivated terraces often with almonds and olives down into rocky valleys with rivers flowing (although some are dry in the summer months). The paths are often lined with wild flowers during the spring and early summer and occasionally with wild tomato hedges and mulberries later in the year.  As you walk along it is not uncommon to pass the local goatherd walking his goats foraging for food and browsing the bushes either side of the path. Sometimes you have to pinch yourself to remember this really is the 21^st Centaury!

Iberian Ibex "Cabra de Monte"

Keep an eye out for the wildlife as you walk. Eagles and vultures are common but there may well be decorative hoopoes and bee-eaters as well as a host of other birds.  You will hear scuttling noises revealing that a gecko is getting out of your way or you might just happen upon one! Cabra de Monte (Iberian Ibex) is common in the more remote parts of the valleys.

A unique feature of the area are the acequia’s, water channels that transport water from the steams and distribute it to the hill farms around the hillsides. Although it was the Romans who first introduced them to this area, the present system of acequia’s date back to the time when the Arabs ruled Spain. Most of the acequia’s have narrow paths running beside them which make for great walking and the presence of water attracts many wild flowers.  Some acequia’s are lined with ancient chestnut trees.

Walking beside an Acequia

It is possible to walk in the Alpujarra throughout the year with the exception of the summer months. The Alpujarra gets very hot in summer and too hot for most people to enjoy walking.  In July and August it is possible to walk high up in the Sierra Nevada Mountains where the temperatures are cool, 15 to 25 degrees depending on height and wind strength.  Walking in the winter months in the Alpujarra is usually o.k. and if the sun is out you might even be wearing shorts and tee shirt in February! If staying in one of the higher villages it is not uncommon for 2 or 3 days snow a couple of times each winter.

We are based near Lanjaron which is a good for access to the whole Sierra Nevada Mountain range.  If I was looking for a base in the Alpujarra for a walking holiday I would consider one of the especially pretty villages of Capileira, Bubion or Pampaneira. A lot of walkers stay in Capileira and there is usually some kindred spirit to strike up conversation with in a bar.  There is also the National Park Information office here. 

A car is useful in this area though using public transport is possible as there is reasonable public transport. Details of the bus company and time table in English can be found on the Sierra Nevada Guides website.

Alpujarran Chimneys

The area’s popularity has been increased by Chris Stewarts book, Driving over Lemons which paints an honest picture of what it’s like living in the area. A good read in its own right but you may enjoy your visit more after reading this.

There are some suggestions as to suitable walks on the Sierra Nevada Guides website with free downloads, these confine themselves to the western Alpujarra, Lecrin Valley and western Sierra Nevada. A useful walking book is Holiday Walks in the Alpujarra by Jeremy Rabjohns. Maps can be bought in the U.K. from Stanford’s and we recommend Sierra Nevada, La Alpujarra 1:40 000. Maps are flimsy and you might like to cover them in sticky back plastic before leaving the U.K.

Sierra Nevada Guides are the only company of qualified British Guides based in the area.  We are happy to advise you on route choice or guide you on a more challenging itinerary.

Spring in the Alpujarra

GR240 The Sendero Sulayr

GR 240

The Sendero Sulayr or The “Mountain of the Sun” long distance path.

The Sendero Sulayr is Spain’s longest circular long distance path. This 300 Km long path makes a circuit of the Sierra Nevada Mountain Range and if completing the whole circuit has an ascent of 9800m! Although being a circuit it doesn’t matter where you start, its official start is from the National Park Information Centre at El Dornajo on the road from Granada towards the Sierra Nevada ski resort.  The path is mainly at heights of between 1800m and 2200m though occasionally higher (up to 2460m) and lower.

The Sierra Nevada was Spain’s first national park and is its largest.  The highest mountain in mainland Spain, Mulhacen 3482m is here as is Cerro del Caballo 3005m being Europe’s most westerly 3000m peak. Given the right conditions it is perfectly possible to include these two mountains in your Sulayr itinerary and is worth considering.

The regional Government of Andalucia (The Junta de Andalucia) and the Sierra Nevada National Park authority opened this path in 2007. Officially it has 19 stages, starting and ending at El Dornajo though the stages seem to end in arbitary places in the middle of nowhere! It is possible to combine some of the stages so as to complete the circuit in 15 days, especially if you are supported and not having to carry heavy packs. Because the route only passes through 2 villages, carrying and / or obtaining food is a problem, so for most people, detours will have to be made and the walk unsupported it is likely to take around 21 days making it a huge undertaking. Fortunately Sierra Nevada Guides operate a support service so with travel to and from the U.K. the route is possible in 17 days.

Guidebooks and Maps for The Sendero Sulayr – GR40

Trevenque, day2

Editorial Penibetica have produced a guidebook to the route “Sendero Sulayr” in English, which is available from Stanfords at £29.95.  This guide contains all the maps and information you require for completing the route.  It doesn’t map enough to allow you to ascend either Caballo or Mulhacen.  Caballo can be included as a variation to day 3, though if wishing to include Mulhacen, you will need an additional day.  Think also about including a rest day or two into your itinerary, especially if doing it unsupported.  You can use rest days to get down to villages for supplies of food. (remember most shops in Spain do not open on Sundays and that there are lots of “local” bank holidays).

                        Distance            Height Gain            Time

Stage 1            14.7 Km            850m                      3hrs  50mins

Stage 2            19.4 Km            1042m                    5hrs  30mins

Stage 3            14.5 Km            10m                        4hrs  30mins

Stage 4            8.7 Km              330m                      3 hours

Stage 5            10.5 Km            298m                        4 hours

Stage 6            17.4 Km            916m                        5 hrs  15mins

Stage 7            24.9 Km            974m                        7 hours

Stage 8            16.5 Km            344m                        5hrs  30mins

Stage 9            20.6 Km            325m                        5hrs  45mins

Stage 10            15.2 Km          535m                        5hrs  30mins

Stage 11            20.7 Km          932m                        7hrs  30mins

Stage 12            16.9 Km          188m                        5 hours

Stage 13            11.2 Km          716m                        4 hours

Stage 14            19.2 Km          467m                        5hrs  30mins

Stage 15            10.2 Km          141m                        3hrs  30mins

Stage 16            21.4 Km           566m                        7 hours

Stage 17            16 Km              664m                        5hrs  15mins

Stage 18            14.5 Km            90m                         5 hours

Stage 19            7.1 Km              438m                       2hrs  30mins

When to do The Sendero Sulayr – GR40

Picking Cherries near Trevelez

Because parts of this route are at an altitude where snow lies during the winter, then the only months that are completely free of snow are likely to be May to October. That said, it is perfectly possible to do the route some years in April and November / early December (it all depends on the amount of snow which has fallen over the winter months).  Forget August, it is too hot!

Because you will need to stay at the Postero Alto Refuge, which is open only at weekends or every day from 1^st July to 15^th September, then July is the obvious choice unless you can plan to arrive at a weekend! Otherwise you'll have to camp outside.

Accommodation on The Sendero Sulayr – GR40

The Sulayr is not a walk with regular accommodation, mountain huts or campsites. To do the walk unsupported you will have to be prepared to wild camp and “rough it” though a tarp would be sufficient in most cases. Even with support, there are at least 2 nights where due to remoteness you would have to stay in Refuges, 1 staffed (at weekends) the other just a stone shelter.  Careful planning is the key to this walk.

If you would like to discuss the possibilities of a supported trip, Sierra Nevada Guides would be happy to advise.

Sierra Nevada Guides are the only company of qualified British Guides operating in Spain’s Sierra Nevada.

Snow arrives in The Sierra Nevada!

The first autumn storm bringing snow has arrived today in The Sierra Nevada with snow lying at 2600m on the northern slopes. We use the webcams at: the Sierra Nevada Ski resort and the 

Poqueira Refuge to glimpse into the mountains. Today, both of these are showing snow!

Near the summit of Cerro del Caballo 3011m, Europe's most westerly 3000m peak.

Although the snow from these early storms does not normally stay very long it’s time to start thinking about winter conditions and being prepared, carrying clothing and equipment to be safe in winter conditions.  Remember too that the days are drawing in and it’s getting dark earlier.

Autumn storms are not all bad!  The rain and snow bring much needed water to replenish the springs that many hill farmers depend on. Our own "mountain cortio" situated at 1300m relies on two natural springs for its water supply, one of which has dried up during the summer.

Looking towards Mulhacen from Puerto Molina

Winter in the Sierra Nevada brings a whole new dimension  to the walking and mountaineering. It’s all well and good having the right equipment, but good navigation skills are essential as is a knowledge of the weather and how to look after yourself. The British Mountain Council have a booklet that can be downloaded free of charge that contains some useful information for hill walkers.  They also have a good video called “winter skills” that’s worth viewing and is good revision too, even for seasoned winter mountaineers.

Of course it’s worth considering skills from qualified professionals.

Sierra Nevada Guides are the only qualified British International Mountain Leaders operating in the Sierra Nevada and Alpujarra.

Sun and blue skies, snowshoeing in the upper Rio Lanjaron

If you want to brush up on your navigation and mountain skills, a day with us in the mountains starts from 30 Euro’s to 70 Euro's depending on numbers.