
News from Sierra Nevada Guides
Latest news from the Sierra Nevada Mountains of Southern Spain
Showing posts with label Sierra Nevada National Park. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sierra Nevada National Park. Show all posts
Monday, 5 January 2015
Cabra de Montana

Friday, 5 September 2014
The High Sierra road.
Wednesday, 20 August 2014
Autumn Walking in the Alpujarra and Sierra Nevada
Autumn Walking in the Alpujarra and Sierra
Nevada
We have spent the
summer months leading walks in the high mountains where the air is cooler. With
the end of August looming the temperatures in Southern Spain start to fall and
walking in the Alpujarra will become a comfortable experience again. We are looking forward to getting
re-acquainted with some “old favourites” classic walks in the Alpujarra, walks
we have done many times before so good that you never tire of them!
| Dramatic gorge in The TaHa |
One such route is a
circuit in The TaHa de Pitres following medieval packhorse trails and
improbable looking paths through cliffs and rocky buttresses, crossing a Roman
bridge and passing through impressive scenery more reminiscent of The Inca
Trail than Southern Spain.
Walking in the high
mountains is still possible too. Although any rain may fall as snow it usually
does not lie for long until November when it starts to build up. (the ski
resort usually opens the last weekend of November). Last year, the National
Park bus from Capileira up to 2700m for an ascent of Mulhacen continued until
the end of October. However caution
| Walking The TaHa in Autumn |
should be exercised on the high routes and
always check the weather forecast and go equipped with the right clothing.
Another Old favourite,
the mountain Trevenque 2080m which is too low and therefore hot becomes an
option again in the autumn. Trevenque is a shapely mountain, sometimes
described as the Matterhorn of the Sierra Nevada and has a short scramble to
reach the summit. Well worth the effort, especially if you make a circuit.
There are too many
good walks to list in a blog but there are detais of 10 walks that can be
downloaded from the Sierra Nevada Guides website.
At Sierra Nevada Guides we are keen to ensure that your visit to the area is as safe and
enjoyable as possible. We are
happy to answer your questions whether you hire a guide from us or not!
Mike, Jane and Martin
from Sierra Nevada Guides are all qualified International Mountain Leaders. Detais about us and of our qualifications are listed on the Sierra Nevada Guides website.
Tuesday, 22 January 2013
Monachil Gorge, Sierra Nevada
The Monachil Gorge is a deservedly popular short walk close to Granada. Reputed to have been used in one of the Indiana Jones movies the gorge is a spectacular cleft through high cliffs. Our route uses suspension bridges to cross the stream running through the gorge and a narrow ‘path’ which is followed with the aid of well placed steel staples fixed into the rock. It sounds scary but it is in fact easy enough if you have a reasonable agility and a head for heights.
To get to the start follow signs from the Sierra Nevada motorway east of Granada to Monachil. As you enter the village you follow the one way system and take the first left over the river. Turn right and after about 400m re cross the river, signed, Camino de la Umbria. Turn left to follow a narrow tarmac road uphill for about 1km then left onto a track where a map gives details of the area. Follow the track for about 1km to park at its end near a building used as a mini hydro electric plant.
There are other routes to the start of the gorge itself however this one prepares you by taking in three smaller suspension bridges before you reach the main event. The walk starts up a flight of steps to the right of the building and is a well trodden fenced path, after about 10 minutes you reach the first small bridge, if you can’t manage this then turn back. Once you have crossed all the smaller bridges the path goes up a level to a ruin where you turn right to reach the main 30m bridge which spans the gorge. After this the path narrows as you follow a narrow concrete path about a metre above the stream. A description would not do the route justice so just go and enjoy it.
After about an hour you emerge from the end of the gorge and having passed the final sting in the tail you reach a field ideal for picnics and recovering. There is a bridge here back across the river however our return route continues upstream for about 2km to a second bridge below a number of finger posts. Cross here and follow the path as it climbs the north side of the valley passing through a very rudimentary field gate at an outcrop of rock. The path levels then drops to meet a track just below an acequia. Ignore the finger posts and go directly across the track to rejoin the path as it contours along the valley side passing below a farm. The path gives you great views down into the gorge and the route you have just done. After a final mirador the path drops to two threshing circles. Once you reach them turn left back into the gorge, at the ruin passed earlier turn right back down to the path we followed at the start of the walk.
8km, 3-4 hours, no water en route.
Friday, 9 November 2012
Flowers of Spain's Sierra Nevada Mountains
Flowers
of the Sierra Nevada
Although I’m no expert
on flowers, my work as a guide in Spain’s Sierra Nevada brings me close to nature. The flowers of the Sierra Nevada are
amazingly diverse as the National and Natural parks span a wide altitude difference
with climatic zones from Mediterranean to Alpine. Also different parts of the Sierra have different geology
that also adds to the diverse spread of species.
| Trumpet Gentian (Gentiana acaulis) with Plantago Nivalis - The Star of the Snows |
| Sierra Nevada Violet, Viola Crassiuscula |
There are many species
and sub-species that are endemic to the Sierra Nevada, including:
Chaenorrhinum
Glareosum Blue
Dreams
Erigeron Frigidus Cold
Fleabane
Artemisia Granatensis Mountain
Camomile
Arenaria Nevadensis
Viola Crassiuscula The
Sierra Nevada Violet
Saxifrage Nevadensis
Pinguicula Nevadensis Thin
Spurred Butterwort
Gentiana Boryi
Gentiana Sierrae
Plantago Nivalis The
Star of the Snows
Additionally there are
many species common to other areas too.
| hormathophylla spinosa known locally as "rascaculos" |
I have two favourite
areas for spotting plants:
| Gentiana Sierae, endemic to the borreguiles |
1.
The “borreguiles”
which are areas of wet pastures besides streams and small lakes at around 2700m to 3000m (typically
Siete Lagunas).
Here you will find
various gentians and the amazing Star of the Snows which is a woolly plantain.
| Ranunculus acetosellifolius, endemic to the Sierra Nevada |
2.
The high boulder and
scree fields at around 3000m to 3400m (typically Alcazaba)
This is where you will
find Blue Dreams, The Sierra Nevada Violet and the Cold Fleabane.
| Thin Spurred Butterwort, Pinguicula Nevadensis endemic |
There is no doubt that
the best time to come and see the alpine flowers is early July. This is when the snow has mostly melted
and there is plenty of moisture coupled with the warm long days. There are some
nice spots accessible from the Poqueira Refuge, the Rio Seco, Rio Mulhacen and
Siete Laguna’s. The Rio Mulhacen
and Siete Laguna’s are possible as a day trip using the National Park bus from
Capileira. (details from Sierra Nevada Guides website).
| St Bruno's Lilly, Paradisia liliastrum (not endemic) |
If you are venturing
into the high mountains to see the stunning wild flowers, remember that these
are serious mountains. It is likely that there will still be snow patches to
cross in July and as in all mountain environments the weather can prove problematic
with frequent high (cold) winds, mist and the occasional storm.
Monday, 5 November 2012
Sierra Nevadas mountain goats

Last week I went with a few friends and again climbed Travenque a superb mountain east of Granada. After a steep ascent the final few meters offer a short scramble to a truly dramatic summit. The view east to Valetta, Caballo and the ski resort is one of the best in the range.
As often happens during a trip in these mountains during the walk we spotted a small herd of ‘’cabra de montana’’. Many of you will have seen herds of these ‘’mountain goats’’, normally running away into the distance. For those who haven’t these truly wild animals are about the size of a fallow deer, they are a tan colour with darker shoulders and haunches with the larger older animals having a pair large sweeping horns. Well suited to the mountain terrain where they are generally found they have short muscular legs and large soft hooves which are perfect for gripping steep rock faces. Generally browsers they live in areas of mixed scrub and broken ground in the lower mountains but I have seen them at 3,000m near the Caldera refuge on Mulhacen, on the edge of Lanjaron and also on the coast near Cerro Gordo. Often the only sign you have that they are in the area are large amounts of droppings on summits though you will often hear a sharp high pitched call as outlying individuals warn a larger group that you are approaching.
The groups you see will either be made up of females with their young or males. The two groups do not generally mix apart from the breeding season in autumn. This is also the time when males fight for dominance of a herd with head butting contests.
My first sighting of ‘’cabra’’ was about 10 years ago whilst descending the south ridge of Mulhacen. Needless to say seeing one of these animals for the first time was quite a shock particularly as it was quite a large male with a fantastic pair of horns. I have become accustomed to looking out for them but even so it’s often not until they move that I spot them as they are well camouflaged and blend into the backgrounds remarkably well.
Whilst often called mountain goats these animals are actually a type of Ibex, Capra pyrenacia . At one time there were a total of four subspecies. One, a Portugese subspecies, died out in 1892. Shockingly the other, Capra pyrenaica pyrenaica, became extinct on the 6th January 2000. A remarkably specific date. However this was when the last known specimen of a subspecies peculiar to the Pyrenees died. A frightening example of how easily we can loose unique animals. The two remaining subspecies however seem to be doing well and at the moment at least appear to be growing in numbers with an estimated population across the Iberian Peninsula of about 50,000.
Next time you’re out in the mountains take time out to try to spot these remarkable animals.
Monday, 29 October 2012
Walking in the Sierra Nevada
Walking in the Sierra Nevada
Spain’s Sierra Nevada
is a great destination for mountain walking on account of it’s settled (summer)
weather and non technical mountains that don’t require the use of alpine
techniques and climbing equipment.
All of the main peaks can be reached by competent mountain walkers. The
high peaks start to become accessible from the end of June when the snow melts
through until October. Even in the
height of the Spanish summer it is relatively cool above 2500m and you can
expect temps of 15 to 20 degrees on the summits if it is not too windy.
| Trevenque |
Although there are
some 26 named peaks over 3000m, there is one especially nice peak, Trevenque
2079m that should not be missed off anyone’s itinerary. Trevenque is a shapely
mountain, sometimes referred to as the Matterhorn of the Sierra’s. Although it may be too hot to climb
from mid July until the end of August because of its lower altitude, never the
less it proves to be a good warm-up or acclimatisation for its higher
neighbours.
| Mulhacen Summit |
Most people visiting
the area want to tick off Mulhacen 3482m which is the highest mountain in
mainland Spain. In summer this is a fairly straight forward peak, especially if
catching one of the National Park busses from either Capileira to the south or
Hoya da la Mora to the west. Details of these busses can be found on the Sierra Nevada Guides website. Possibly the best circuit is to book
the bus from Capileira but drive up to and catch the bus as it passes “the
barrier” at Hoya del Portillo. The bus takes you to Mirador Trevelez 2680m from
where it is a 2 hour walk up Mulhacen’s south ridge to the summit. Descend the
west ridge to the Caldera Refuge
getting views of Mulhacen’s north face, then follow the valley down to the
Poqueira Refuge where you can buy a beer before setting off again to Hoya del
Portillo. Approx 7 hours from
getting off the bus at Mirador Trevelez.
| Flowers at Siete Lagunas, Gentians and "Star of the Snows" |
The big 3 of the
Sierra Nevada are Mulhacen 3482m, Veleta 3394m and Alcazaba 3371m. Of these the
most difficult but most rewarding day is to ascend Alcazaba. The easiest way to
get to Alcazaba is to take the bus up from Capileira to Mirador Trevelez. Follow the path as for Mulhacen to
where a path heads off towards Siete Lagunas at approx 3000m (not obvious).
From Siete Lagunas it is possible to make a circuit on Alcazaba, ascending a
ridge towards Penon del Globo but traversing northwards at around 3150m towards
Meseta de las Borregas and onto a ridge that ascends Alcazaba from the south
east. Descent to the top of the Siete Lagunas by an improbable path through
cliffs and screes and wander down past all 7 lagoons, especially nice with the
abundant alpine flowers. From Laguna Hondera follow the same route back to
Miradoor Trevelez. 7.5 hours. It
is possible to ascend to Siete Laguna’s from the village of Trevelz 1475m but
this is a very long day.
| Ascending the ridge to Cerro del Caballo |
A personal favourite of
ours is the Cerro del
Caballo 3005m. This is Europe’s most westerly 3000m peak.
Although there are several ways of ascending Caballo, our favourite circuit is
from the Ventura road head about an hours drive up a rough dirt track from
Lanjaron or Lecrin. From the parking spot at the end of the road take the
obvious path the leads up to the old ruined Ventura Refuge (20 minutes).
Continue up the path for a short distance, it now heads up steeply to cross and
acequia channel and continues in gentle ascent crossing 2 streams to the start
of a pine forest. Follow the fire break upwards at the side of the forest to
its high point and take a diagonal line up to the ridge above you. The ridge is
followed more or less to the summit of Caballo. From the summit you can peer
down to the north east and see the Caballo Refuge beside a laguna. In descent
head north west to a col above the refuge and follow scree (some times snow in
early summer) and descend to the refuge. From the Refuge a faint path heads
down hill, north east past a lagoon. We normally take a line north eastwards
down to the Rio Lanjaron by a prominent waterfall before picking up a path that
heads south west along the rio for approx 3 Kms to a dam. Leave the Rio to the
right (west side of the dam) ascending for 50m before descending to pick up the
acequia which is followed back towards Ventura. 7 hrs.
| Caballo from the Upper Rio Lanjaron |
Like all mountain
areas, the Sierra Nevada can be serious and has claimed several lives in recent
years (four of them British). The above descriptions are intended as an outline
and you will need to be competent, especially at navigation to undertake
them. In summer, the most likely
hazard you’ll face is intense sun, dehydration and a little breathlessness due
to the altitude. However there
have been several occasions in summer when we have retreated due to high winds.
Keep an eye on the weather too. It
is not unknown for afternoon storms to build up around the higher peaks.
There is plenty of
information about the area (maps, weather, places to stay, etc.) on the Sierra Nevada Guides website and we are always happy
to advise you on routes and conditions.
If in doubt about your
ability or you would like a skills refresher, hire a qualified guide from Sierra Nevada Guides.
Monday, 15 October 2012
GR240 The Sendero Sulayr
GR 240
The Sendero Sulayr or The “Mountain of the Sun”
long distance path.
The Sendero Sulayr is
Spain’s longest circular long distance path. This 300 Km long path makes a
circuit of the Sierra Nevada Mountain Range and if completing the whole circuit
has an ascent of 9800m! Although being a circuit it doesn’t matter where you
start, its official start is from the National Park Information Centre at El
Dornajo on the road from Granada towards the Sierra Nevada ski resort. The path is mainly at heights of
between 1800m and 2200m though occasionally higher (up to 2460m) and lower.
The Sierra Nevada was
Spain’s first national park and is its largest. The highest mountain in mainland Spain, Mulhacen 3482m is
here as is Cerro del Caballo 3005m being Europe’s most westerly 3000m peak.
Given the right conditions it is perfectly possible to include these two mountains
in your Sulayr itinerary and is worth considering.
The regional
Government of Andalucia (The Junta de Andalucia) and the Sierra Nevada National
Park authority opened this path in 2007. Officially it has 19 stages, starting
and ending at El Dornajo though the stages seem to end in arbitary places in
the middle of nowhere! It is possible to combine some of the stages so as to
complete the circuit in 15 days, especially if you are supported and not having
to carry heavy packs. Because the route only passes through 2 villages,
carrying and / or obtaining food is a problem, so for most people, detours will
have to be made and the walk unsupported it is likely to take around 21 days
making it a huge undertaking. Fortunately Sierra Nevada Guides operate a support service so with travel to and from the U.K. the route is possible in 17 days.
Guidebooks and Maps for The Sendero Sulayr –
GR40
![]() |
| Trevenque, day2 |
Editorial Penibetica
have produced a guidebook to the route “Sendero Sulayr” in English, which is
available from Stanfords at £29.95.
This guide contains all the maps and information you require for
completing the route. It doesn’t
map enough to allow you to ascend either Caballo or Mulhacen. Caballo can be included as a variation
to day 3, though if wishing to include Mulhacen, you will need an additional
day. Think also about including a
rest day or two into your itinerary, especially if doing it unsupported. You can use rest days to get down to
villages for supplies of food. (remember most shops in Spain do not open on
Sundays and that there are lots of “local” bank holidays).
Distance Height
Gain Time
Stage 1 14.7
Km 850m 3hrs 50mins
Stage 2 19.4
Km 1042m 5hrs 30mins
Stage 3 14.5
Km 10m 4hrs 30mins
Stage 4 8.7
Km 330m 3
hours
Stage 5 10.5
Km 298m 4
hours
Stage 6 17.4
Km 916m 5
hrs 15mins
Stage 7 24.9
Km 974m 7
hours
Stage 8 16.5
Km 344m 5hrs 30mins
Stage 9 20.6
Km 325m 5hrs 45mins
Stage 10 15.2
Km 535m 5hrs 30mins
Stage 11 20.7
Km 932m 7hrs 30mins
Stage 12 16.9
Km 188m 5
hours
Stage 13 11.2
Km 716m 4
hours
Stage 14 19.2
Km 467m 5hrs 30mins
Stage 15 10.2
Km 141m 3hrs 30mins
Stage 16 21.4
Km 566m 7
hours
Stage 17 16
Km 664m 5hrs 15mins
Stage 18 14.5
Km 90m 5
hours
Stage 19 7.1
Km 438m 2hrs 30mins
When to do The Sendero Sulayr – GR40
![]() |
| Picking Cherries near Trevelez |
Because parts of this
route are at an altitude where snow lies during the winter, then the only
months that are completely free of snow are likely to be May to October. That
said, it is perfectly possible to do the route some years in April and November
/ early December (it all depends on the amount of snow which has fallen over
the winter months). Forget August,
it is too hot!
Because you will need
to stay at the Postero Alto Refuge, which is open only at weekends or every day
from 1st July to 15th September, then July is the obvious
choice unless you can plan to arrive at a weekend! Otherwise you'll have to camp outside.
Accommodation on The Sendero Sulayr – GR40
The Sulayr is not a
walk with regular accommodation, mountain huts or campsites. To do the walk
unsupported you will have to be prepared to wild camp and “rough it” though a
tarp would be sufficient in most cases. Even with support, there are at least 2
nights where due to remoteness you would have to stay in Refuges, 1 staffed (at
weekends) the other just a stone shelter.
Careful planning is the key to this walk.
Tuesday, 6 March 2012
Climb Alcazaba 3371m
Alcazaba
3371m
Climbing Alcazaba (meaning fortress or
citadel) the third highest mountain in Spain’s Sierra Nevada Mountains. It
is also the most remote of the big three and therefore the least often climbed.
We believe that it is a much better excursion than either Mulhacen or Veleta,
requiring determination if you want to succeed.
This summer Sierra Nevada Mountain Guides will be organizing walking itineraries to traverse Alcazaba and will be
available to guide individuals or groups.
The walking starting at from a height of 2700m takes around 8 hours for
the complete trip ascending via the east ridge and descending via Siete
Lagunas.
Sunday, 26 February 2012
Climb Mulhacen
Mulhacen 3482m
Climbing Mulhacen which at 3482m is the highest point in mainland Spain. This puts it high on the tick list of many visitors to the area and mountaineers from across Europe. Although a fairly straightforward walk for competent mountaineers in summer, it is a different proposition in winter requiring a high degree of winter skills.
There is a guide to climbing Mulhacen on The Sierra Nevada Guides website.
In the summer months the Sierra Nevada National Park operate a bus from the village of Capileira up to Mirador Trevelez 2700m from where it is possible to ascend Mulhacen's South Ridge. It is fair to say that probably most people use the bus though it is perfectly possible to make a good circuit there and back in a day from the "road head" at Hoya del Portillo above Capileira.
A good circuit is to ascend Mulhacen's South Ridge and descend its West Ridge to the Caldera Refuge. It is possible to return along the old road back to Mirador Trevelez, but if you have enough time descend the Rio Mulhacen and visit the Poqueira Refuge where drinks and snacks can be bought. It is possible to complete a circuit back to Mirador Trevelez from here or back to Hoya del Portillo depending on your starting point.
Another popular way is by spending a night at the Poqueira Refuge. An easy day to the refuge either along the acequia to Las Tomas then a steep pull up or more easily from Hoya del Portillo. Day two from the hut, follow the Rio Mulhacen to the Caldera Refuge then ascend Mulhacen's short but steep West Ridge, stopping to admire the views out across the North Face. Descent is down the easy angled South Ridge to Mirador Trevelez before taking the ridge (or dirt track road) back to Hoya del Portillo via the viewpoint at Puerto Molino.
For those interested in wildlife, there is normally much to see, especially in summer. We have been amazed at the butterflies around Mulhacen summit on many occasions. Alpine Swifts, Alpine Accentors, Choughs, Eagles and Vultures are common sights. It would be rare not to see one of the many "cabra de monte" which are Iberian Ibex. They have become quite tame at the popular lunch spots and are frequent scroungers!
The flowers of the Sierra Nevada can be quite spectacular too.
Early summer is the best time to see flowers as the winter snows retreat. Walking up Mulhacen from Hoya del Portillo takes you from below the tree line, through sub alpine and into alpine climatic areas. Each has its own plant varieties, many of them endemic to the Sierra Nevada.
The wet areas known as "borreguiles" can be quite spectacular so if you are planning to make your ascent during the early summer (July), do consider taking in the Rio Mulhacen.
Information about the various routes up Mulhacen, maps, National Park bus, etc can all be found on the Sierra Nevada Guides website.
Mulhacen like any big mountain can be quite dangerous in poor weather and especially in winter conditions. Most days in the summer months it is usually a straightforward climb for experienced mountain walkers with the skills to navigate and look after themselves in the mountains. High winds are frequent and afternoon storms are a possibility even in summer.
Sierra Nevada Mountain Guides are always happy to advise visitors to the area or provide you with a qualified guide.
| Mulhacen with Alcazaba (to the left) |
There is a guide to climbing Mulhacen on The Sierra Nevada Guides website.
| Mulhacen Summit |
| Mulhacen's West Ridge from The Caldera Refuge |
![]() |
| The Poqueira Refuge |
| Alpine Accentor at Mulhacen Summit |
The flowers of the Sierra Nevada can be quite spectacular too.
| Estrella de las Nieves (star of the Snows) with Gentians |
The wet areas known as "borreguiles" can be quite spectacular so if you are planning to make your ascent during the early summer (July), do consider taking in the Rio Mulhacen.
| "Cabra de Monte" - The Iberian Ibex near the summit of Mulhacen |
Mulhacen like any big mountain can be quite dangerous in poor weather and especially in winter conditions. Most days in the summer months it is usually a straightforward climb for experienced mountain walkers with the skills to navigate and look after themselves in the mountains. High winds are frequent and afternoon storms are a possibility even in summer.
Sierra Nevada Mountain Guides are always happy to advise visitors to the area or provide you with a qualified guide.
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