Crowded mountains

With the heat of summer I have done quite a few trips around Veleta in the past few weeks. This peak is second highest in the Sierra Nevada and with its proximity to the Granada ski village and an area called Hoya de la Mora it is a relatively easy summit to ascend and so is perhaps the most climbed peak in the range. This was brought home to me last week when I arrived at the summit last weekend with a couple of clients. The summit of the mountain is marked by a concrete pillar and on this occasion it was crowded with a group of about fifty walkers. It was almost like getting to the summit of Snowdon. As we lunched the numbers grew as more and more walkers and cyclists arrived at the summit. It does seem that the popularity of walking in the mountains is growing. Other mid week visits have been much quieter affairs with the whole mountain empty of walkers. On those visits it is quite common to come across quite large numbers of Cabra de Montana. In late July for the first time ever I came across a young cabra kid suckling off its mother. I had never seen this before so it was great to see. A week later with a group of friends we watched as a fox circled a group of three or four cabra before they finally decided that enough was enough and they chased the fox off down the mountainside. Cabra do seem to becoming more used to walkers and in some areas particularly will allow you to get quite close before they run off. Descending Mulhacens south ridge in early August I walked within about three meters of a group of four large males who casually watched as I approached before finally getting up and sauntering off. They didn’t seem in the least worried by my presence seemingly accepting the fact that I was there in their territory. Near the Poqueira refuge cabra quite often approach the building even if you are sat out on the terrace. They seem to like licking the side of the building presumably getting essential salts to supplement their diet. Other wildlife sightings in recent trips included a couple of juvenile Golden eagles soaring above us on a trip to Pico de Jerez near Gaudix. Nearer to home we recently spotted a common genet (Genetta genetta) crossing the track below our finca as we drove up from the village one night. These animals are also known as ‘’civit cats’’ and look like a cross between a domestic cat and a large ferret.

Cool summer walking

With low level temperatures hitting the high 30's it is still possible to get some cooler walks in in the main Sierra Nevada range by taking the cable car up the southern side of Veleta. The cable car runs out of the Pradollano ski village which sits at 2,000m above Granada Initially travelling in an enclosed gondola or cable car you arrive at the Borreguiles half way station where you change on to an open chair lift for the final stretch up to 2,9000m. The ride is spectacular in its own right as it carries you over the now dry ski runs. In the past couple of years the lifts have been adapted to accommodate mountain bikes and there are now a number of down hill runs also starting from the end of the chair lifts. The lifts end at a fairly bleak area on the mountain side however a couple of great walks start from here. Most walkers head north east to follow a track uphill to los posiciones de Veleta at 3,000m. From this spot you get one of the best views in the whole of the Sierra Nevada range as you look east across the dramatic north faces of Veleta, Mulhacen and Alcazaba. From here some more confident walkers may venture down into the corall de Veleta though most will continue south along the track to the refugio de carahuela before ascending to the summit. For those who don’t want to climb as much there is also another path which starts from the end of the chair lit. Head south west after leaving the cable car and the walking is equally spectacular if perhaps a little easier. After a few minutes waymarkers bring you to the head of a path which head down through quite rugged terrain to the Embalse de las Yeguas a small man made lake used to supply water for snow machines in the ski season. From here you can head south east to explore the lagunillas de la virgin, small natural tarns where you may well find snow till quite late in the season. Returning to the embalse you can retrace your path up hill or head north west to cross a small coll below the obvious observatory building to then head down to Borreguiles. Even in high summer it will be cooler at these altitudes so it’s worth remembering that you may well need additional clothing and a waterproof jacket. The cable cars do not run when there are high wind speeds and as ever when you are venturing out you need to check the weather forecast before you head out.

Walking the acequias of the Alpujarra

Many of us who live in the countryside areas around the Sierra Nevada rely upon the acequia system to bring us much needed water. For those not in the know, acequias are man-made water channels which run throughout the area bringing water to lower agricultural land They are often essential, allowing us to grow fruit and veg., fill swimming pools (perhaps illegally) shower or even wash the car.

Thought to have been fully developed by the Moors when they ruled the area, the system probably reaches further back into history. It seems obvious that digging channels to route water to where it was most needed must have gone on for millennia in order to make the most of what is a precious resource. The system has spread across the whole of the region with hundreds of channels creating a massive irrigation system that feeds the whole of the area. On my hillside alone there are four major acequias channels. The Acequia Alta which ultimately feeds my cortijo, runs directly from the Rio Lanjaron at about 1,400m and traverses the hillside before it finishes above the Tablate gorge about whole 10km from its start. En route, sluices allow the water to be managed and fed down a network of smaller and smaller channels before ultimately watering my lettuce.

When walking in the region most of us will have come across acequias. Often with a path alongside, they can provide relatively easy walking routes along steep hillsides and river valleys reaching into the mountain ranges of the area. Whilst providing easy graded walks, they sometimes have short steep sections where the channel itself will be sent down rock outcrops in order to change the level at which it runs. Sometimes however they give much more dramatic walking as they pass through rather than down an outcrop. If you do come across these sections it seems incredible that the original builders had the skill to create these parts of the system. I must admit I actually seek out some of the more dramatic bits and have found many during my exploration of the area.

Some of the best are actually on the Acequia Alta where about 2km from the river the acequia clings to high cliffs above a vertical drop of about 50m. These sections are unfenced and if crossed when the water is flowing are breathtaking. Another dramatic section is found in the Rio Chillar gorge near Nerja. Here the acequia cuts through cliffs high on the east side of the valley. The ‘’path’’ is about a foot wide and runs around the cliffs as the water channel itself runs through on a narrow tunnel. Even though these sections are fenced they still need a good head for heights.
Perhaps one the most used routes is that through the Monachil Gorge. Here though, you may not know it, the channel is covered for most of its length and the acequia takes you through dramatic natural rock scenery.

Climb Mulhacen!

Climb Mulhacen!

Looking at Mulhacen's North Face from the West Flank

Having made many ascents of Mulhacen over the past years, I can honestly say that I never grow tired of it.  Different seasons bring a range of  weather and alter conditions underfoot; different routes bring variations in gradients and technical difficulties; but most of all the enjoyment comes from the range of people that I guide and meet during the course of an ascent.

There are many different ways to climb Mulhacen and variations on each of them. These are described in our Guide to Climbing Mulhacen  which also describes the technical difficulties and the level of “mountain competence” required.

Basically (in summer) you can either climb Mulhacen as a day trip or as a 2 day trip by spending a night at The Refugio Poqueira. Our 3 favourite routes up Mulhacen are:

Day Trips

Stunning flowers on the way up!

1.     If you have a car available, book yourself onto the National Park Bus that leaves Capileira at 8.30am. On the morning of your ascent, turn up early and make sure that the National Park staff and bus driver know that you will drive up to the “barrier” at Hoya del Portillo where you leave your car and get on the bus.

The bus takes you to Alto del Chorrillo at 2700m. From here it is an easy 2 hour climb to the summit of Mulhacen by the South Ridge. From the summit make your way down the West Flank to the Caldera Refuge (taking a look over the impressive North Faces of Mulhacen and Alcazaba) then down the Rio Mulhacen to the Refugio Poqueira (drinks and toilets).

Iberian Ibex "Cabra" by the Caldera Refuge

From the Refugio Poqueira take the road, initially up hill to join the gentally descending path that leads back to Hoya del Portillo.

2.     From Hoya del Portillo 2100m, walk up through the forest to the viewpoint at Puerto Molino. Take the path that ascends up above the road and follow a broad ridge before joining a road that takes you to Alto del Chorrillo 2700m. Here the path leads up Mulhacen’s South Ridge. Allow 5 hours for the ascent.

To make a bit of a circuit, descend by the West Flank to the old road which can be followed back to Puerto Molino (or pick up the route along the ridge that you ascended above Puerto Molino). Allow 9 hours for the round trip.

2 Day trip

Flamenco on the summit!

3.     Day 1. Starting from Capileira, ascend to the Refugio Poqueira via La Cebadilla and Cortijo Las Tomas. Allow around 5 hours for the ascent. This is a beautiful way into the mountains, especially in June when the flowers are magnificent.

Day 2. Ascend the rio Mulhacen. After around half an hour cross the river to the west side and ascend past lagoons to the Caldera Refuge. From the Caldera take the path that ascends taking you to “glimpse” over the North Faces of Alcazaba and Mulhacen. Rejoin the cairned path to the summit. (3 to 4 hours).

Descend down the south ridge to near Alto del Chorrillo and follow the road for a short distance, take the “short cut” via a huge obvious cairn that cuts out a loop in the road which is re-joined to the Refugio Poqueira.

Mulhacen II (the lower summit) from Puerto Molina

Re-trace your route back to Capileira.

Although we are describing these routes, the level of difficulty varies according to conditions underfoot (e.g. snow), your level of fitness and especially the weather.  It is perfectly possible for the mountains to be shrouded in mist, even during the summer which makes navigation difficult.  High winds can also be a problem in summer.

There is lots of useful information to help you plan your trip to The Sierra Nevada on the Sierra Nevada Guides Website.

Sierra Nevada Guides are always happy to advise on conditions but if you are in any doubt, please hire a guide!

Sierra Nevada Guides are the only qualified British guides (International Mountain Leaders) operating in The Sierra Nevada.