Refugio de Poqueira

Situated at 2,500m on the southern slopes of Mulhacen the ‘’Refugio de Poqueira’’ has in recent years become more and more popular with mountaineers and walkers. Built in the mid nineties to replace the higher Felix Mendez hut the refuge is a well appointed base for activities in the high peaks of the Sierra Nevada. With some recent improvements the refuge sleeps up to 84 people in a number of mixed dormitories on its upper floor. Below in a large airy dinning room large three course evening meals are shared out amongst that days guests by friendly and professional guardians. The main objective for most people staying overnight is undoubtedly an ascent of Mulhacen . from the refuge either the south or west ridge routes are easily accessed but it is perhaps the Rio Mulhacen/Caldera/west ridge route which is the better of the two. A technical route under winter conditions when there is steep ice and snow on the upper slopes this route comes into its own once snow clears the main faces of the mountain and it becomes a beautiful walk up an alpine river valley to a steep final ascent. As well as Mulhacen the Sierra Nevada’s two other big summits are available from the refuge. Veleta lies to the west and can be easily reached by following the old mountain road as it traverse the range at around 3,000m. To the east lies Alcazaba , an ascent from the refuge takes in Siete lagunas and involves about 1,300 m of ascent. It is perhaps though the best trip in the range and well worth the effort.

Cabra de Montana

In a recent article in Granadas Ideal newspaper I read of a project based in the Rio Dilar area of the Sierra that was investigating the life cycle of Cabra de Montana, the wild mountain goats often seen across the whole region. Many of you who walk regularly in the area will have seen these ‘’mountain goats’’, normally running away into the distance. For those who haven’t these truly wild animals are about the size of a fallow deer, they are a tan colour with darker shoulders and haunches with the larger older animals having a pair large sweeping horns. Well suited to the mountain terrain where they are generally found they have short muscular legs and large soft hooves which are perfect for gripping steep rock faces. Generally browsers they live in areas of mixed scrub and broken ground in the lower mountains but I have seen them at 3,000m near the Caldera refuge on Mulhacen, on the edge of Lanjaron and also on the coast near Cerro Gordo. Often the only sign you have that they are in the area are large amounts of droppings on summits though you will often hear a sharp high pitched call as outlying individuals warn a larger group that you are approaching. The groups you see will either be made up of females with their young or males. The two groups do not generally mix apart from the breeding season in autumn. This is also the time when males fight for dominance of a herd with head butting contests. My first sighting of ‘’cabra’’ was about 10 years ago whilst descending the south ridge of Mulhacen. Needless to say seeing one of these animals for the first time was quite a shock particularly as it was quite a large male with a fantastic pair of horns. I have become accustomed to looking out for them but even so it’s often not until they move that I spot them as they are well camouflaged and blend into the backgrounds remarkably well. Whilst often called mountain goats these animals are actually a type of Ibex, Capra pyrenacia . At one time there were a total of four subspecies. One, a Portugese subspecies, died out in 1892. Shockingly the other, Capra pyrenaica pyrenaica, became extinct on the 6th January 2000. A remarkably specific date. However this was when the last known specimen of a subspecies peculiar to the Pyrenees died. A frightening example of how easily we can loose unique animals. The two remaining subspecies however seem to be doing well and at the moment at least appear to be growing in numbers with an estimated population across the Iberian Peninsula of about 50,000.

Galayos de Dilar

The ridge line that runs along the south side of the Rio Dilar has been on my tick list for many years. I’ve often viewed it during ascents of Travenque when the ridge line takes on a rugged and mountainous appearance, hence the nick name of the ‘’Cullin of the Sierra Nevada’’. We used 4X4 to access tracks on the south side of the ridge and then ascended an open gully before heading up a narrow sandy ridge onto the main ridge itself . We reached the ridge just east of the rocky summit of Carazon de Sandia where there is a fantastic view north through a cleft in the ridge line toward Travenque. The path along the ridge itself runs some way below the crest and whilst it was sometimes a bit vague on the ground provided an easy enough line traversing the eastwards below El Castillejo to reach easier ground at Collado del Pino. To the south the short rocky ridge line of Los Gallos looked inviting and was added to the long list of routes to be done at some point in the future. From the collado it was an easy enough though hot return along sandy tracks to the car.

Climb Mulhacen!

Climb Mulhacen!

Looking at Mulhacen's North Face from the West Flank

Having made many ascents of Mulhacen over the past years, I can honestly say that I never grow tired of it.  Different seasons bring a range of  weather and alter conditions underfoot; different routes bring variations in gradients and technical difficulties; but most of all the enjoyment comes from the range of people that I guide and meet during the course of an ascent.

There are many different ways to climb Mulhacen and variations on each of them. These are described in our Guide to Climbing Mulhacen  which also describes the technical difficulties and the level of “mountain competence” required.

Basically (in summer) you can either climb Mulhacen as a day trip or as a 2 day trip by spending a night at The Refugio Poqueira. Our 3 favourite routes up Mulhacen are:

Day Trips

Stunning flowers on the way up!

1.     If you have a car available, book yourself onto the National Park Bus that leaves Capileira at 8.30am. On the morning of your ascent, turn up early and make sure that the National Park staff and bus driver know that you will drive up to the “barrier” at Hoya del Portillo where you leave your car and get on the bus.

The bus takes you to Alto del Chorrillo at 2700m. From here it is an easy 2 hour climb to the summit of Mulhacen by the South Ridge. From the summit make your way down the West Flank to the Caldera Refuge (taking a look over the impressive North Faces of Mulhacen and Alcazaba) then down the Rio Mulhacen to the Refugio Poqueira (drinks and toilets).

Iberian Ibex "Cabra" by the Caldera Refuge

From the Refugio Poqueira take the road, initially up hill to join the gentally descending path that leads back to Hoya del Portillo.

2.     From Hoya del Portillo 2100m, walk up through the forest to the viewpoint at Puerto Molino. Take the path that ascends up above the road and follow a broad ridge before joining a road that takes you to Alto del Chorrillo 2700m. Here the path leads up Mulhacen’s South Ridge. Allow 5 hours for the ascent.

To make a bit of a circuit, descend by the West Flank to the old road which can be followed back to Puerto Molino (or pick up the route along the ridge that you ascended above Puerto Molino). Allow 9 hours for the round trip.

2 Day trip

Flamenco on the summit!

3.     Day 1. Starting from Capileira, ascend to the Refugio Poqueira via La Cebadilla and Cortijo Las Tomas. Allow around 5 hours for the ascent. This is a beautiful way into the mountains, especially in June when the flowers are magnificent.

Day 2. Ascend the rio Mulhacen. After around half an hour cross the river to the west side and ascend past lagoons to the Caldera Refuge. From the Caldera take the path that ascends taking you to “glimpse” over the North Faces of Alcazaba and Mulhacen. Rejoin the cairned path to the summit. (3 to 4 hours).

Descend down the south ridge to near Alto del Chorrillo and follow the road for a short distance, take the “short cut” via a huge obvious cairn that cuts out a loop in the road which is re-joined to the Refugio Poqueira.

Mulhacen II (the lower summit) from Puerto Molina

Re-trace your route back to Capileira.

Although we are describing these routes, the level of difficulty varies according to conditions underfoot (e.g. snow), your level of fitness and especially the weather.  It is perfectly possible for the mountains to be shrouded in mist, even during the summer which makes navigation difficult.  High winds can also be a problem in summer.

There is lots of useful information to help you plan your trip to The Sierra Nevada on the Sierra Nevada Guides Website.

Sierra Nevada Guides are always happy to advise on conditions but if you are in any doubt, please hire a guide!

Sierra Nevada Guides are the only qualified British guides (International Mountain Leaders) operating in The Sierra Nevada.