“The best and most varied multi
day trek in Spain’s Sierra Nevada”
Mulhacen is 3482m high
and is the highest mountain in mainland Spain and indeed the Iberian
Peninsular. It is situated in The
Sierra Nevada National Park near the city of Granada around two hours drive
from Malaga.
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Early season, the route from Mulhacen's South Ridge to the Refugio Poqueira. |
There are several long
distance trails passing through or around the Sierra Nevada but none that
combine the villages, the highest peaks and pass through the different and
varied climatic / wildlife zones in a way that can be enjoyed without camping
or bivouacking.
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Mulhacen from The Caldera |
Our aim with The Tour
of Mulhacen is to combine all of the best aspects that make the Sierra Nevada
National and Natural Parks a special pace to enjoy into a week long holiday.
This includes ascents of the two highest mountains in the Sierra Nevada: Veleta
3396m and Mulhacen 3482m.
The Sierra Nevada is
Spain’s largest National Park. It’s uniqueness stems from the large number of
endemic species (over 100 with 63 species of endemic plants). During the Tour
of Mulhacen we hope you will be able to spend time appreciating the unique and
special landscapes that you are passing through.
The Sierra Nevada with its proximity to Granada was
part of the old Arab Kingdom of Al Andalus. In fact the name Mulhacén is
derived from Muley Hasan, the penultimate Arab king, who legend states is
buried on the mountain. The southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada are known as
the Alpujarra and are characterised by pretty white villages in the Moorish
style. Capileira, where this walk starts and finishes is perhaps the prettiest.
The route is a journey through some high and remote
places. In summer the weather is generally good with little rain in June and
usually none at all in July and August. September is mainly fine but there are
usually a couple of stormy days which can result in snow high up. In any month
there can be high winds making the higher parts of the route difficult, also it
can be misty with low cloud.
Apart from the (2 days) sections walking along the
GR240, there is no signposting to be relied on. Good map reading skills, a
compass and knowing how to use them is essential.
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The Tour of Mulhacen, near Trevelez. |
Day 1
Capileira to Trevelez.
A route following the
GR240 between the two highest villages in mainland Spain.
6 to 7 hours walking
with about 800m of ascent.
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The endemic, "Star of the Snows" |
Capileira 1436m is a
very pretty mountain village with lots of bars and hotels. The information
centre is situated beside the bus stop almost opposite the Bar Moirama. Here it
is possible to buy maps.
The Spanish are not
known for their early starts, however for the first two days, starting from a
lowly height of around 1400m to 1500m it is advisable to make an early (ish)
start to avoid the heat of summer.
Today’s walk follows the
GR240 to Trevelez, The first two hours being uphill to Hoya del Portillo 2100m. Fortunately a lot of
this climb is in forest that provides shade. Once above Hoya del Portillo the
mountainside opens out and we leave the forest. This is a fairly arid hillside
but where there is water look out for some spectacular plants. Crossing this
hillside in the afternoon regularly give sights of both eagles and vultures
circling above.
Trevelez 1476m is the
highest village in mainland Spain. As such it is famous and it is also a centre
for curing hams in the dry mountain air. Perhaps not so pretty as Capileira but
still a very nice picturesque village.
Day 2
Trevelez to The Postero Alto Refuge.
Ascending the Rio
Trevelez to Puerto Trevelez before descending to the Postero Alto Refuge. About
8 hours walking with 1500m of ascent.
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Refugio Postero Alto |
Today’s walk is
probably the hardest day of the Tour of Mulhacen. This is due to reaching the
steep slopes of El Horcaio in the heat of the day. However it is a great and
varied days walking.
We head out of the
village to the north following joining and following the Rio Trevelez. This is
a verdant valley, very green, even in the height of summer. As we climb we pass
through summer farms where the farmers still use horse to access their high
farms.
Once we have scaled
the slopes of El Horcaio, the mountain path is more gentle beside a nice
mountain stream that we follow to today’s high point of Puerto Trevelez 2800m
where we cross the main east / west ridge of the Sierra Nevada and descend down
to the Refugio Postero Alto 1880m.
The
Refugio PosteroAlto is a unique building sometimes described as “The Hobbit House” with its
many adjoining extensions.
Day 3 Postero
Alto Refuge to The Pena Partida Refugio (shelter).
An easier day with a
chance to pass the spectacular waterfalls of Los Lavaderos de la Reina. About 6
hours walking with about 650m of ascent.
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Iberian Ibex, a common sight |
Today we will follow
the GR240 path past the Lavaderos de la Reina, spectacular waterfalls in the
early summer due to the vast amount of
melting snow on the high peaks. A chance to follow some spectacular
“acequia’s” which are old water channels originally constructed by the Arabs to
share the water around the mountain sides brining more farmland into use.
The Pena PartidaRefuge 2451m is just a stone shelter with a wooden sleeping platform. For this
night you will need to carry a sleeping mat, sleeping bag and any spare clothes
you need. This is the only night on The Tour without a manned refuge or hotel.
If undertaking this trip with
Mountain Walking Holidays, there is
a certain amount of support available so a meal will be prepared for you!
Day 4
Pena Partida to The University Albergue at Hoya
de la Mora
16.5Km with 1400m of
ascent. About 8 hours walking.
Day 5
Hoya
de la Mora to the Refugio Poqueira via the high peaks
of Veleta (3394m)
and Mulhacen (3482m).
Not as hard as you might think! We take the National Park bus
from the Albergue to 3000m before the ascent of Veleta.
Between Veleta and Mulhacen it is mainly easy walking apart
from the final
400m climb. Our descent off Mulhacen is down
the gentle South Ridge to the
Refugio Poqueira. We end the
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Refugio Poqueira with Veleta 3396m in the background |
Day 6 Refugio
Poqueira to Capileira
A descent of the
delightful Rio Poqueira back to Capileira. 4 to 5 hours.
When to do this route
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Enjoying the Summit of Mulhacen 3482m. |
This route really
needs to be done after the snow has melted making it a safer undertaking. Most
years The Tour will be in condition from mid June through until mid October. The
Alpine flowers are especially good at the beginning of July. That said there are some areas of
concern:
i. The
Refugio Postero Alto is only open throughout the week in July, August and
September. Other months it is only open at weekends.
ii. Snow
often lies across the route near the Carrihuela Refuge (Day 5) until mid July.
This re-freezes overnight and can be difficult to cross especially early in the
day without crampons.
Accommodation and Campsites
There is plenty of
hotel accommodation in both Capileira and Trevelez. In Capileira we have used
several Hotels but the cheapest is the Hostal Moirma which we found perfectly
adequate. If you need an early breakfast, best buy provisions in and have it in
your room as you are unlikely to get anything before 8am. The Bar Meson
Poqueira does a good tostada from 7.30am.
In Trevelez The
Refugio Alpujarra Alta is good basic accommodation, though there are plenty of
hotels. Both Capileira and
Trevelez have mini supermarkets.
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A beer at the Refugio Poqueira. |
The Refugio Postero
Alto and Refugio Poqueira need to
be booked in advance. They provide good wholesome meals, have a bar and limited
shop where you can buy basic items such as chocolate and biscuit bars. The Refugio Poqueira has hot showers
available and you can rent a towel.
For both refugio’s you will need a sheet sleeping bag.
The refugio Pena
Partida is a basic bothy with table and chairs and a sleeping platform.
The University
Albergue at Hoya de la Mora is a very basic hotel. They serve reasonable meals
and will make you a packed lunch. If you are intending to use the National Park
bus to gain height from here, this can be booked when you make the Alberge
booking.
There are Official Campsites
at Trevelez and Pitres (20 minutes drive from Capileira).
It is possible to wild
camp in the National Park though there are some rules to follow (available
either direct from the National Park or in leaflet form in English from the
Information Centres). However this route as described does not require “wild
camping” in the traditional sense and would be difficult within the rules
dictated by the National Park.
Maps and Guidebooks
The Editorial
Penibetica 1:40k Map, “Parque Nacional de Sierra Nevada, La Alpujarra,
Marquesada del Zenete” is perfectly adequate for the route and comes with a
guidebook (in English) to the Area. It is available from Stanfords and we
recommend that you get it laminated prior to your trip as it is very flimsy.
It is also available
from the Information Centre in Capileira and some shops and bars.
Other multi day treks in the Sierra Nevada
There are several
other long distance routes that pass by or through the Sierra Nevada and
Alpujarra.
The GR240 is Spain’s
longest circular long distance footpath that circumnavigates The Sierra Nevada
in 19 stages. The only villages it passes through are Capileira and Trevelez so
stocking up with provisions is difficult if doing it in one complete outing.
The GR7 crosses the
western edge of the Sierra Nevada near Lanjaron and continues through the
Alpujarra.
The “Integral” is a
traverse of all the 3000m peaks of the Sierra Nevada, usually from east to
west. There are some variations on
the route and most people spend 3 or 4 nights wild camping along the route.
The Tour of Mulhacen as a Supported Trek: