Walking the acequias of the Alpujarra

Many of us who live in the countryside areas around the Sierra Nevada rely upon the acequia system to bring us much needed water. For those not in the know, acequias are man-made water channels which run throughout the area bringing water to lower agricultural land They are often essential, allowing us to grow fruit and veg., fill swimming pools (perhaps illegally) shower or even wash the car.

Thought to have been fully developed by the Moors when they ruled the area, the system probably reaches further back into history. It seems obvious that digging channels to route water to where it was most needed must have gone on for millennia in order to make the most of what is a precious resource. The system has spread across the whole of the region with hundreds of channels creating a massive irrigation system that feeds the whole of the area. On my hillside alone there are four major acequias channels. The Acequia Alta which ultimately feeds my cortijo, runs directly from the Rio Lanjaron at about 1,400m and traverses the hillside before it finishes above the Tablate gorge about whole 10km from its start. En route, sluices allow the water to be managed and fed down a network of smaller and smaller channels before ultimately watering my lettuce.

When walking in the region most of us will have come across acequias. Often with a path alongside, they can provide relatively easy walking routes along steep hillsides and river valleys reaching into the mountain ranges of the area. Whilst providing easy graded walks, they sometimes have short steep sections where the channel itself will be sent down rock outcrops in order to change the level at which it runs. Sometimes however they give much more dramatic walking as they pass through rather than down an outcrop. If you do come across these sections it seems incredible that the original builders had the skill to create these parts of the system. I must admit I actually seek out some of the more dramatic bits and have found many during my exploration of the area.

Some of the best are actually on the Acequia Alta where about 2km from the river the acequia clings to high cliffs above a vertical drop of about 50m. These sections are unfenced and if crossed when the water is flowing are breathtaking. Another dramatic section is found in the Rio Chillar gorge near Nerja. Here the acequia cuts through cliffs high on the east side of the valley. The ‘’path’’ is about a foot wide and runs around the cliffs as the water channel itself runs through on a narrow tunnel. Even though these sections are fenced they still need a good head for heights.
Perhaps one the most used routes is that through the Monachil Gorge. Here though, you may not know it, the channel is covered for most of its length and the acequia takes you through dramatic natural rock scenery.

Sierra de Lujar.

Whilst reaching a height of 1,850m the Sierra de Lujar range to the south of the Sierra Nevada is generally overlooked by walkers visiting the area. Perhaps the reason is that with its whale bacl appearance and lack of rocky peaks it just does not appeal. There are routes here however with one of the better ascents forming a hard day out with about 1,200m of ascent. The route starts in the Baranco de Castilejo a steep sided valley due south of Orgiva. The baranco , which holds some single pitch climbs on outcrops , provides an easy route in as there is a mine access track running up it from the main road. The track splits at about 700m with the main branch doubling back to climb the western side of the valley to the mine workings above. Our route climbs the eastern side on a less well used track before reaching a fire break/track which runs south along the crest of a narrow ridge that climbs steeply upward. The track provides a clear route until about 1.000m where it reverts to a path running up the middle of the fire break which still follows the crest. The route now steepens and at 1250m begins to develop a more rocky nature with a number of limestone outcrops along the crest. The first three are by passed to the right (west) though provide short scrambles. After a further 300m of ascent the ridge fades into the main bulk of the mountain. From here you will see the masts at the summit, head due south to and these. Just before the first of the masts you will reach a narrow tarmac road, follow this past the first of the masts to bear right just before the second group to follow a stone path bearing right before the third group of masts. The path now narrows and heads west to cross the head of the Baranco de Castilejo and reaches a minor peak. Now narrower the path crosses open plateau to reach the edge of a one forest. From here head right (north) through the forest. As you emerge cross a distinctive limestone ridge to enter a second narrower band of older pine trees. Leave the second band of trees and head to a clear track still heading north across the hillside. As the track turns west continue north across virgin hillside to reach the head of a broad firebreak which creates the start of the descent route. Cross a number of narrow tracks until at about 1,250m you reach a well used track. There are some large caves off to the left (west).This now heads east to pass the ruins of some mine buildings before zigzagging down the mountainside back to the start of the route.

Winter Skills Course – Sierra Nevada, Spain including a winter ascent of Mulhacen.

Winter Skills Course – Sierra Nevada, Spain.

Learn the skills to walk confidently in the mountains in winter. 
A week of winter mountaineering skills training, in Spain’s beautiful Sierra Nevada mountains. Including a winter ascent of Mulhacen 3482m mainland Spain’s highest mountain.

1^st February to 8^th February, 2014.

The course is being run / directed by Andy Say (MIC, IML) of Mountain Training England and supported by IML’s from Sierra Nevada Guides (Jane Livingstone, Martin Riley and Michael Hunt).

The course will be hotel based in Lanjaron with 2 nights spent in the mountains, Poqueira Refuge and snow shelter. Cost, excluding flights, £795. This includes meeting you at Malaga Airport, full board accommodation and returning you to Malaga at the end of the week.

Course Outline:

Sat 1^st Feb.              Arrive. 

Introductions, course outline and equipment brief.

Sun 2^nd Feb.            Moving on snow and ice.

An introduction to ice axe and crampon use.  Simple secure movement; step cutting, self-belay, self-arrest.  Movement on snow with crampons and snowshoes.

Mon 3^rd Feb.           Safer travel in the winter environment.

Snowpack formation and analysis in the field.  Route planning from weather/snowfall history. Simple observation and tell-tale signs.  Test pits.  Following a safer route.

Tue 4^th Feb.            Looking after others. 

The use of the rope in a winter environment.  
Snow and ice belays.  Retreat using the rope.

Wed 5^th Feb.            Journey up the hill.

Putting it all in to practice.  Night in Poquera Refuge.

Thur 6^th Feb.            Emergency procedures.

Snow shelters, bivouac skills.  Night out on the hill, either Caldera Bivi Refuge or in snow shelters.

Fri 7^th Feb.              Ascent of Mulcahen 3482m (highest mountain in mainland Spain) and descent to valley.

Sat 8^th Feb.              End of course and depart.

Details are on the website.

Further details can be obtained from either Mike or Jane at Sierra Nevada Guides.              Email: info@sierranevadaguides.co.uk

                        Tel:            01433  639  368

Walking in The Alpujarra

Walking in the Alpujarras

Having walked extensively throughout the U.K., Europe and in Morocco, I can honestly say that walking in Spain’s Alpujarra is up there with the best! To just say that there are pretty villages and scenic valleys would not do the area justice.

Busquistar and the Taha Gorge

The walking often begins from one of the many whitewashed villages first established by the Berber’s of North Africa when Spain was ruled by Arab kings. The architecture of these villages being identical to the villages of Morocco’s Atlas Mountains. Flat roofs and distinct decorative chimneys make an amazing sight when wandering down the steep narrow streets of the villages that often seem to cling to the hillside.

Paths take you through cultivated terraces often with almonds and olives down into rocky valleys with rivers flowing (although some are dry in the summer months). The paths are often lined with wild flowers during the spring and early summer and occasionally with wild tomato hedges and mulberries later in the year.  As you walk along it is not uncommon to pass the local goatherd walking his goats foraging for food and browsing the bushes either side of the path. Sometimes you have to pinch yourself to remember this really is the 21^st Centaury!

Iberian Ibex "Cabra de Monte"

Keep an eye out for the wildlife as you walk. Eagles and vultures are common but there may well be decorative hoopoes and bee-eaters as well as a host of other birds.  You will hear scuttling noises revealing that a gecko is getting out of your way or you might just happen upon one! Cabra de Monte (Iberian Ibex) is common in the more remote parts of the valleys.

A unique feature of the area are the acequia’s, water channels that transport water from the steams and distribute it to the hill farms around the hillsides. Although it was the Romans who first introduced them to this area, the present system of acequia’s date back to the time when the Arabs ruled Spain. Most of the acequia’s have narrow paths running beside them which make for great walking and the presence of water attracts many wild flowers.  Some acequia’s are lined with ancient chestnut trees.

Walking beside an Acequia

It is possible to walk in the Alpujarra throughout the year with the exception of the summer months. The Alpujarra gets very hot in summer and too hot for most people to enjoy walking.  In July and August it is possible to walk high up in the Sierra Nevada Mountains where the temperatures are cool, 15 to 25 degrees depending on height and wind strength.  Walking in the winter months in the Alpujarra is usually o.k. and if the sun is out you might even be wearing shorts and tee shirt in February! If staying in one of the higher villages it is not uncommon for 2 or 3 days snow a couple of times each winter.

We are based near Lanjaron which is a good for access to the whole Sierra Nevada Mountain range.  If I was looking for a base in the Alpujarra for a walking holiday I would consider one of the especially pretty villages of Capileira, Bubion or Pampaneira. A lot of walkers stay in Capileira and there is usually some kindred spirit to strike up conversation with in a bar.  There is also the National Park Information office here. 

A car is useful in this area though using public transport is possible as there is reasonable public transport. Details of the bus company and time table in English can be found on the Sierra Nevada Guides website.

Alpujarran Chimneys

The area’s popularity has been increased by Chris Stewarts book, Driving over Lemons which paints an honest picture of what it’s like living in the area. A good read in its own right but you may enjoy your visit more after reading this.

There are some suggestions as to suitable walks on the Sierra Nevada Guides website with free downloads, these confine themselves to the western Alpujarra, Lecrin Valley and western Sierra Nevada. A useful walking book is Holiday Walks in the Alpujarra by Jeremy Rabjohns. Maps can be bought in the U.K. from Stanford’s and we recommend Sierra Nevada, La Alpujarra 1:40 000. Maps are flimsy and you might like to cover them in sticky back plastic before leaving the U.K.

Sierra Nevada Guides are the only company of qualified British Guides based in the area.  We are happy to advise you on route choice or guide you on a more challenging itinerary.

Spring in the Alpujarra