Cool summer walking

With low level temperatures hitting the high 30's it is still possible to get some cooler walks in in the main Sierra Nevada range by taking the cable car up the southern side of Veleta. The cable car runs out of the Pradollano ski village which sits at 2,000m above Granada Initially travelling in an enclosed gondola or cable car you arrive at the Borreguiles half way station where you change on to an open chair lift for the final stretch up to 2,9000m. The ride is spectacular in its own right as it carries you over the now dry ski runs. In the past couple of years the lifts have been adapted to accommodate mountain bikes and there are now a number of down hill runs also starting from the end of the chair lifts. The lifts end at a fairly bleak area on the mountain side however a couple of great walks start from here. Most walkers head north east to follow a track uphill to los posiciones de Veleta at 3,000m. From this spot you get one of the best views in the whole of the Sierra Nevada range as you look east across the dramatic north faces of Veleta, Mulhacen and Alcazaba. From here some more confident walkers may venture down into the corall de Veleta though most will continue south along the track to the refugio de carahuela before ascending to the summit. For those who don’t want to climb as much there is also another path which starts from the end of the chair lit. Head south west after leaving the cable car and the walking is equally spectacular if perhaps a little easier. After a few minutes waymarkers bring you to the head of a path which head down through quite rugged terrain to the Embalse de las Yeguas a small man made lake used to supply water for snow machines in the ski season. From here you can head south east to explore the lagunillas de la virgin, small natural tarns where you may well find snow till quite late in the season. Returning to the embalse you can retrace your path up hill or head north west to cross a small coll below the obvious observatory building to then head down to Borreguiles. Even in high summer it will be cooler at these altitudes so it’s worth remembering that you may well need additional clothing and a waterproof jacket. The cable cars do not run when there are high wind speeds and as ever when you are venturing out you need to check the weather forecast before you head out.

Clients, the unknown element.

One of the problems I face with some clients is that I don’t really know their experience in the mountains. If they are here for a few days I do a walk on the first day that gives me some idea of what they can do and how fit they are or not. Clients who come for just one day, usually to do Mulhacen are more of a problem. With little idea of what experience people have it is a bit of a gamble. Once you get to meet people however you do get a chance to get some idea of what to expect. Most claim to have and a long experience of walking in Britain and a few well aimed questions soon confirm this. Others talk of trips to ‘’base camp’’, having done ‘’Kili’’( Kilimanjaro) or the Inca trail. In late June I had a group of three women who where here to do Mulhacen before they then headed off to Granada for a couple of days. We met in the hotel bar on the evening before and in order to get some idea of what to expect I asked about their mountaineering experience. ‘’We’ve done, Ben Nevis, Sca Fell Pike and Snowdon. Mulhacen’s not much higher than those is it?’’ I had a slight panic as I explained that whilst summits in the UK are measured in feet, Mulhacen’s height was shown in meters and as a result was more than three times the height. ‘’Will that make a big difference then?’’ was the response. We did set out the next day on the understanding that we would see how far we got. The summit was in view for most of the walk but we got nowhere near we did however have a great walk in the mountains which at the end of the day is what we went out for. I cant say to much as many years ago at a house show back in the UK I glanced at a map of Andalucia and saw a height of 3482 and presumed it was in feet and thought ‘’OK so these hills will be a bit like the Lakes’’ it was hours later dawned on me that as it was a European map it would be meters. At the other end of the client scale I have had had those who opening lines are ‘’I’m a triathlete and want to bag a few peaks’’ I then end up chasing people up and down the mountains without taking a breather. Not my idea of fun at all.

Sierra Nevada Mountain Camomile - Artemisia granatensis

Sierra Nevada Mountain Camomile

The Mountain Camomile: Artemisia granatensis is found exclusively in the Sierra Nevada in dry grassland on loose rock over 2500m.  It has traditionally been sought after and used as a medicinal plant for stomach complaints, and its reputation was such that large amounts of money were paid to obtain its benefits. Over exploitation has brought this plant to the edge of extinction and there is now a programme within the National Park to increase its population.

The Mountain Camomile: Artemisia granatensis 

Those once common, it now mainly occurs in the more inaccessible areas where the camomile pickers “manzanilleros” were not able to exploit it.

The one we didn't find!!

This week Mike and Jane from Sierra Nevada Guides decided to “have a look” for the plant using someone’s photo from the internet which gave a good idea of its general location.  Whilst descending from Veleta 3396m the 2^nd highest summit in the Sierra Nevada they chose a route via the San Juan valley which would bring them under the old observatory. However not actually carrying a copy of the photo they failed miserably.

Two days later making a traverse on Cerro de los Machos 3327m they were rewarded with seeing several plants in two separate locations.

Cold Fleabane - Erigeron frigidus

Generally the alpine flowers in the Sierra Nevada are stunning in June and July. The Sierra Nevada boasts some 86 endemic species of plants and many more endemic species of fauna.

Sierra Nevada Guides are particularly interested in the areas wildlife and are keen to share our knowledge during the walks we lead.

Sierra Nevada Guides are the only qualified British Guides (International Mountain Leaders) operating in the Sierra Nevada.

Sierra Nevada Guides are always happy to help you plan your trip to the Sierra Nevada, even if you do not use a guide (though you will have an easier time if you do!).

Refugio de Poqueira

Situated at 2,500m on the southern slopes of Mulhacen the ‘’Refugio de Poqueira’’ has in recent years become more and more popular with mountaineers and walkers. Built in the mid nineties to replace the higher Felix Mendez hut the refuge is a well appointed base for activities in the high peaks of the Sierra Nevada. With some recent improvements the refuge sleeps up to 84 people in a number of mixed dormitories on its upper floor. Below in a large airy dinning room large three course evening meals are shared out amongst that days guests by friendly and professional guardians. The main objective for most people staying overnight is undoubtedly an ascent of Mulhacen . from the refuge either the south or west ridge routes are easily accessed but it is perhaps the Rio Mulhacen/Caldera/west ridge route which is the better of the two. A technical route under winter conditions when there is steep ice and snow on the upper slopes this route comes into its own once snow clears the main faces of the mountain and it becomes a beautiful walk up an alpine river valley to a steep final ascent. As well as Mulhacen the Sierra Nevada’s two other big summits are available from the refuge. Veleta lies to the west and can be easily reached by following the old mountain road as it traverse the range at around 3,000m. To the east lies Alcazaba , an ascent from the refuge takes in Siete lagunas and involves about 1,300 m of ascent. It is perhaps though the best trip in the range and well worth the effort.

Snowshoeing in The Sierra Nevada

Snowshoeing in The Sierra Nevada

Spain’s Sierra Nevada can be an amazing place for snowshoeing during the winter months. Despite its southerly latitude and proximity to the Mediterranean Sea, its altitude can mean cold or very cold, and certainly cold enough for snow!

Snowshoeing Sierra Nevada - The Refugio Poqueira

Most winters there is enough snow to give enough itineraries to keep the snowshoeing enthusiast sufficient days out to fill a weeks itinerary, though at some points each winter it can get a little “lean” and you’ll find yourself carrying your snowshoes over some sections.

Snowshoeing Sierra Nevada - Perfect Snow and Sun!

A highlight is a snowshoe trip up to the Refugio Poqueira where you can spend a night (full hotel service) sitting beside the log fire soaking up the ambience. The snow often sits at around 1800m just above the village of Capileira 1300m.

Day 1.

Parking at a high point it is possible to snowshoe up through the forest to Hoya del Portillo 2150m which provides a good break point for lunch.

Continuing up through the forest towards Mirador Trevelez we then pick up the traversing path that leads gently through forest and then open hillsides to the Refugio Poqueira 2500m.

Day 2.

A couple of short steep climbs lead us to Alto del Chorrillo 2700m where we can pick up the broad ridge that leads back to Puerto Molino 2400m and Hoya del Portillo. Here we can take a different route back through the forest to where we started from.

Sierra Nevada Snowshoeing - Perfect Snow near Alto del Chorrillo 2700m

This snowshoe trip is undoubtedly one of the finest in the Sierra Nevada and not to be missed from any itinerary so long as there is enough snow. The best time for this trip is usually February.

The Sierra Nevada like any mountains in winter can be cold and dangerous. Before setting out ensure that you know the weather forecast is good, be equipped for winter mountaineering and have the right skills including being able to navigate in snowy mountains. If in doubt, hire a qualified guide.

Sierra Nevada Guides are three Qualified British International Mountain Leaders with an intimate knowledge of the Sierra Nevada. 

Sierra Nevada Snowshoeing - When the mist comes in, Make Sure You Can Navigate!

Sierra Nevada Guides can teach you the skills to walk safely or snowshoe in the mountains.

Cabra de Montana

In a recent article in Granadas Ideal newspaper I read of a project based in the Rio Dilar area of the Sierra that was investigating the life cycle of Cabra de Montana, the wild mountain goats often seen across the whole region. Many of you who walk regularly in the area will have seen these ‘’mountain goats’’, normally running away into the distance. For those who haven’t these truly wild animals are about the size of a fallow deer, they are a tan colour with darker shoulders and haunches with the larger older animals having a pair large sweeping horns. Well suited to the mountain terrain where they are generally found they have short muscular legs and large soft hooves which are perfect for gripping steep rock faces. Generally browsers they live in areas of mixed scrub and broken ground in the lower mountains but I have seen them at 3,000m near the Caldera refuge on Mulhacen, on the edge of Lanjaron and also on the coast near Cerro Gordo. Often the only sign you have that they are in the area are large amounts of droppings on summits though you will often hear a sharp high pitched call as outlying individuals warn a larger group that you are approaching. The groups you see will either be made up of females with their young or males. The two groups do not generally mix apart from the breeding season in autumn. This is also the time when males fight for dominance of a herd with head butting contests. My first sighting of ‘’cabra’’ was about 10 years ago whilst descending the south ridge of Mulhacen. Needless to say seeing one of these animals for the first time was quite a shock particularly as it was quite a large male with a fantastic pair of horns. I have become accustomed to looking out for them but even so it’s often not until they move that I spot them as they are well camouflaged and blend into the backgrounds remarkably well. Whilst often called mountain goats these animals are actually a type of Ibex, Capra pyrenacia . At one time there were a total of four subspecies. One, a Portugese subspecies, died out in 1892. Shockingly the other, Capra pyrenaica pyrenaica, became extinct on the 6th January 2000. A remarkably specific date. However this was when the last known specimen of a subspecies peculiar to the Pyrenees died. A frightening example of how easily we can loose unique animals. The two remaining subspecies however seem to be doing well and at the moment at least appear to be growing in numbers with an estimated population across the Iberian Peninsula of about 50,000.

Winter walking skills

As I write this in late November it would seem that winter has finally arrived. The fire is on and we’ve had two days of rain which I hope will be falling as snow on the high mountains. All bodes well for some good winter walking at last. So far this season I’ve already experienced a white out and hail storm on a Mulhacen ascent in early November followed by a superb ascent with crisp white snow under a blue sky later that month. The first ascent was miserable, the second one of those days when it was a dream to be in the mountains. For me walking in the under a clear blue sky in snow covered mountains is perhaps the best way to experience the high peaks. Many summer walkers are very wary of setting out in winter and whilst clearly it is more difficult and possibly more dangerous a few basic skills and some common sense means that it can be open to all with reasonable experience and fitness. There is a saying amongst UK walkers that there is no such thing as bad weather only bad gear. To a certain extent that’s true and certainly you need better and more gear for winter than summer walking. Good boots and waterproofs are essential as are enough layers of clothing to keep you warm. One of the main issues in the Sierra Nevada is high wind speed which due to wind chill can dramatically drop the temperatures particularly on exposed ridges and mountain sides. Whilst not as dramatic as in the UK winter days are shorter than in summer so carrying a head torch in your rucksack (along with spare batteries) is useful as are spare gloves and hats Snow and weather conditions vary a great deal from day to day so keeping an eye on the forecast is essential. Whilst on the mountain conditions change quickly, snow moved by strong winds can create areas of ’’wind slab’’ on lee slopes which are often prone to avalanche. Good route planning and navigation skills are more important than at other times of the year. A safe winter route may not be the same as one done in clear summer conditions when following a GPS. For those who want to gain more winter mountaineering experience and learn skills such as safe use of ice axes, creating snow shelters and avalanche awareness in early February together with colleagues at Sierra Nevada Guides I am running a Winter Mountaineering Skills Course. Contact me for more details or see the link from my website.