Refugio de Poqueira

Situated at 2,500m on the southern slopes of Mulhacen the ‘’Refugio de Poqueira’’ has in recent years become more and more popular with mountaineers and walkers. Built in the mid nineties to replace the higher Felix Mendez hut the refuge is a well appointed base for activities in the high peaks of the Sierra Nevada. With some recent improvements the refuge sleeps up to 84 people in a number of mixed dormitories on its upper floor. Below in a large airy dinning room large three course evening meals are shared out amongst that days guests by friendly and professional guardians. The main objective for most people staying overnight is undoubtedly an ascent of Mulhacen . from the refuge either the south or west ridge routes are easily accessed but it is perhaps the Rio Mulhacen/Caldera/west ridge route which is the better of the two. A technical route under winter conditions when there is steep ice and snow on the upper slopes this route comes into its own once snow clears the main faces of the mountain and it becomes a beautiful walk up an alpine river valley to a steep final ascent. As well as Mulhacen the Sierra Nevada’s two other big summits are available from the refuge. Veleta lies to the west and can be easily reached by following the old mountain road as it traverse the range at around 3,000m. To the east lies Alcazaba , an ascent from the refuge takes in Siete lagunas and involves about 1,300 m of ascent. It is perhaps though the best trip in the range and well worth the effort.

Snowshoeing in The Sierra Nevada

Snowshoeing in The Sierra Nevada

Spain’s Sierra Nevada can be an amazing place for snowshoeing during the winter months. Despite its southerly latitude and proximity to the Mediterranean Sea, its altitude can mean cold or very cold, and certainly cold enough for snow!

Snowshoeing Sierra Nevada - The Refugio Poqueira

Most winters there is enough snow to give enough itineraries to keep the snowshoeing enthusiast sufficient days out to fill a weeks itinerary, though at some points each winter it can get a little “lean” and you’ll find yourself carrying your snowshoes over some sections.

Snowshoeing Sierra Nevada - Perfect Snow and Sun!

A highlight is a snowshoe trip up to the Refugio Poqueira where you can spend a night (full hotel service) sitting beside the log fire soaking up the ambience. The snow often sits at around 1800m just above the village of Capileira 1300m.

Day 1.

Parking at a high point it is possible to snowshoe up through the forest to Hoya del Portillo 2150m which provides a good break point for lunch.

Continuing up through the forest towards Mirador Trevelez we then pick up the traversing path that leads gently through forest and then open hillsides to the Refugio Poqueira 2500m.

Day 2.

A couple of short steep climbs lead us to Alto del Chorrillo 2700m where we can pick up the broad ridge that leads back to Puerto Molino 2400m and Hoya del Portillo. Here we can take a different route back through the forest to where we started from.

Sierra Nevada Snowshoeing - Perfect Snow near Alto del Chorrillo 2700m

This snowshoe trip is undoubtedly one of the finest in the Sierra Nevada and not to be missed from any itinerary so long as there is enough snow. The best time for this trip is usually February.

The Sierra Nevada like any mountains in winter can be cold and dangerous. Before setting out ensure that you know the weather forecast is good, be equipped for winter mountaineering and have the right skills including being able to navigate in snowy mountains. If in doubt, hire a qualified guide.

Sierra Nevada Guides are three Qualified British International Mountain Leaders with an intimate knowledge of the Sierra Nevada. 

Sierra Nevada Snowshoeing - When the mist comes in, Make Sure You Can Navigate!

Sierra Nevada Guides can teach you the skills to walk safely or snowshoe in the mountains.

Cabra de Montana

In a recent article in Granadas Ideal newspaper I read of a project based in the Rio Dilar area of the Sierra that was investigating the life cycle of Cabra de Montana, the wild mountain goats often seen across the whole region. Many of you who walk regularly in the area will have seen these ‘’mountain goats’’, normally running away into the distance. For those who haven’t these truly wild animals are about the size of a fallow deer, they are a tan colour with darker shoulders and haunches with the larger older animals having a pair large sweeping horns. Well suited to the mountain terrain where they are generally found they have short muscular legs and large soft hooves which are perfect for gripping steep rock faces. Generally browsers they live in areas of mixed scrub and broken ground in the lower mountains but I have seen them at 3,000m near the Caldera refuge on Mulhacen, on the edge of Lanjaron and also on the coast near Cerro Gordo. Often the only sign you have that they are in the area are large amounts of droppings on summits though you will often hear a sharp high pitched call as outlying individuals warn a larger group that you are approaching. The groups you see will either be made up of females with their young or males. The two groups do not generally mix apart from the breeding season in autumn. This is also the time when males fight for dominance of a herd with head butting contests. My first sighting of ‘’cabra’’ was about 10 years ago whilst descending the south ridge of Mulhacen. Needless to say seeing one of these animals for the first time was quite a shock particularly as it was quite a large male with a fantastic pair of horns. I have become accustomed to looking out for them but even so it’s often not until they move that I spot them as they are well camouflaged and blend into the backgrounds remarkably well. Whilst often called mountain goats these animals are actually a type of Ibex, Capra pyrenacia . At one time there were a total of four subspecies. One, a Portugese subspecies, died out in 1892. Shockingly the other, Capra pyrenaica pyrenaica, became extinct on the 6th January 2000. A remarkably specific date. However this was when the last known specimen of a subspecies peculiar to the Pyrenees died. A frightening example of how easily we can loose unique animals. The two remaining subspecies however seem to be doing well and at the moment at least appear to be growing in numbers with an estimated population across the Iberian Peninsula of about 50,000.

Winter walking skills

As I write this in late November it would seem that winter has finally arrived. The fire is on and we’ve had two days of rain which I hope will be falling as snow on the high mountains. All bodes well for some good winter walking at last. So far this season I’ve already experienced a white out and hail storm on a Mulhacen ascent in early November followed by a superb ascent with crisp white snow under a blue sky later that month. The first ascent was miserable, the second one of those days when it was a dream to be in the mountains. For me walking in the under a clear blue sky in snow covered mountains is perhaps the best way to experience the high peaks. Many summer walkers are very wary of setting out in winter and whilst clearly it is more difficult and possibly more dangerous a few basic skills and some common sense means that it can be open to all with reasonable experience and fitness. There is a saying amongst UK walkers that there is no such thing as bad weather only bad gear. To a certain extent that’s true and certainly you need better and more gear for winter than summer walking. Good boots and waterproofs are essential as are enough layers of clothing to keep you warm. One of the main issues in the Sierra Nevada is high wind speed which due to wind chill can dramatically drop the temperatures particularly on exposed ridges and mountain sides. Whilst not as dramatic as in the UK winter days are shorter than in summer so carrying a head torch in your rucksack (along with spare batteries) is useful as are spare gloves and hats Snow and weather conditions vary a great deal from day to day so keeping an eye on the forecast is essential. Whilst on the mountain conditions change quickly, snow moved by strong winds can create areas of ’’wind slab’’ on lee slopes which are often prone to avalanche. Good route planning and navigation skills are more important than at other times of the year. A safe winter route may not be the same as one done in clear summer conditions when following a GPS. For those who want to gain more winter mountaineering experience and learn skills such as safe use of ice axes, creating snow shelters and avalanche awareness in early February together with colleagues at Sierra Nevada Guides I am running a Winter Mountaineering Skills Course. Contact me for more details or see the link from my website.

Winter Mountain Skills Course

Winter Mountain Skills Course

Sierra Nevada Guides run a series of winter skills events in Spain’s Sierra Nevada mountains each winter. The aim is to give mountain walkers the breath of skills and experience necessary to tackle “non technical” mountains. i.e. mountains that can be ascended without the need for ropes and climbing ability.

Winter Skills, Learning the Ropes!

Winter Skills, Building Snow Shelters

These courses cover the following topics:

Walking with crampons;

Walking with snowshoes;

How to use an ice axe to cut steps and to arrest you if you fall down a slope;

Navigation and route planning;

Building emergency shelters and snowholes;

The use of a rope in emergency situations;

The use of avalanche tranceivers;           

Mountain weather;            and

Snowpack analysis.

Winter Skills, Ice Axe Arrest

Because for most people, the course is a holiday we consider it important to make it fun and to have some mountain objectives. For the week long course we aim to ascend mainland Spain’s highest mountain, Mulhacen 3482m from the Refugio Poqueira. The week long course spends 3 nights in a hotel and 4 nights at the Refugio.

The course is headed by Andy Say (IML and MIC) the Chief Officer of Mountain Training England and staffed and supported by IML’s from Sierra Nevada Guides.

For 2015 we are running from 31^st January to 7^th February.  Cost £825, this includes airport pick ups from Malaga Airport, a week of full board accommodation and tuition. All you need to provide are your flights, personal equipment and beer money!

Sierra Nevada Guides will provide any ropes, snowshoes, helmets, tranceivers and snow shovels, though you are welcome to provide your own.

Sierra Nevada Guides

Winter Skills - Relaxation!!

You can read more about walking in the Sierra Nevada mountains in our article winter on UK Hill Walking.

Winter Skills Training in Spain’s Sierra Nevada

Winter Skills Training in Spain’s Sierra Nevada with Sierra Nevada Guides

Winter Skills Course - Mulhacen Summit, 3482m

The Sierra Nevada has the highest mountain in mainland Spain, Mulhacen 3482m. Although it is Europe’s most southerly major mountain chain, it usually has a good covering of snow from December through to March with winter mountaineering  and skiing possible from late November until early May.

This year Sierra Nevada Guides are running a week of winter mountain skills training from 31^st January until 7^th February. 3 nights spent in a hotel and 4 at the Refugio Poqueira at 2500m. The week is being led by Andy Say, Executive Secretary (Chief Officer) of Mountain Training England, assisted by Sierra Nevada Guides.

Winter Skills Course - Descending Steep Ground

Although weather dependent, the proposed itinerary is as follows:

Saturday 31st

Arrive at Malaga Airport

Depart for Lanjaron, optional lunch at Salobrenea (beach bar 10 Euro’s).

Arrive Hotel Alcadima, tour of Lanjaron.

Evening session: Safety and Equipment.

Sunday 1st

Depart hotel around 9am.

Puento Palo for introduction to walking with crampons, snow shoes and ice axe breaking techniques.

Back to hotel for debrief and session discussion re: ascending to Refugio Poqueira.

Winter Skills Course - Learning the ropes!

Monday 2nd

Depart hotel with gear and clothes for 4 nights, 9am.

Walk from Capileira to Refugio Poqueira.

Evening session: Navigation and Route Planning.

Tuesday 3rd

Navigation Practice,  Use of Avalanch Tranceivers,  Building Snow Shelters.

Evening session: Mountain Weather

Wednesday 4th

Putting it into Practice 1 – Rio Seco / Rio Mulhacen

Winter Skills Course - Near Mulhacen's summit

Thursday 5th

Putting it into Practice 2 – A winter ascent of Mulhacen 3482m.

Friday 6^th

Walk out from Refugio to Capileira.  Hotel

Saturday 7^th

Depart for Malaga Airport and Home.

The Cost £825 includes full board accommodation, airport pick up and drop off and tuition throughout the week. You will need your own ice axe and crampons (we have some spares) and winter clothing. We will provide helmets, ropes, snowshoes and tranceivers.  Oh yes, you will also need some beer money!

Full details of the course are on the Sierra Nevada Guides website.

Sierra Nevada Guides are a company of International Mountain Leaders based in Spain's Sierra Nevada.

Walking the acequias of the Alpujarra

Many of us who live in the countryside areas around the Sierra Nevada rely upon the acequia system to bring us much needed water. For those not in the know, acequias are man-made water channels which run throughout the area bringing water to lower agricultural land They are often essential, allowing us to grow fruit and veg., fill swimming pools (perhaps illegally) shower or even wash the car.

Thought to have been fully developed by the Moors when they ruled the area, the system probably reaches further back into history. It seems obvious that digging channels to route water to where it was most needed must have gone on for millennia in order to make the most of what is a precious resource. The system has spread across the whole of the region with hundreds of channels creating a massive irrigation system that feeds the whole of the area. On my hillside alone there are four major acequias channels. The Acequia Alta which ultimately feeds my cortijo, runs directly from the Rio Lanjaron at about 1,400m and traverses the hillside before it finishes above the Tablate gorge about whole 10km from its start. En route, sluices allow the water to be managed and fed down a network of smaller and smaller channels before ultimately watering my lettuce.

When walking in the region most of us will have come across acequias. Often with a path alongside, they can provide relatively easy walking routes along steep hillsides and river valleys reaching into the mountain ranges of the area. Whilst providing easy graded walks, they sometimes have short steep sections where the channel itself will be sent down rock outcrops in order to change the level at which it runs. Sometimes however they give much more dramatic walking as they pass through rather than down an outcrop. If you do come across these sections it seems incredible that the original builders had the skill to create these parts of the system. I must admit I actually seek out some of the more dramatic bits and have found many during my exploration of the area.

Some of the best are actually on the Acequia Alta where about 2km from the river the acequia clings to high cliffs above a vertical drop of about 50m. These sections are unfenced and if crossed when the water is flowing are breathtaking. Another dramatic section is found in the Rio Chillar gorge near Nerja. Here the acequia cuts through cliffs high on the east side of the valley. The ‘’path’’ is about a foot wide and runs around the cliffs as the water channel itself runs through on a narrow tunnel. Even though these sections are fenced they still need a good head for heights.
Perhaps one the most used routes is that through the Monachil Gorge. Here though, you may not know it, the channel is covered for most of its length and the acequia takes you through dramatic natural rock scenery.