Mountain Weather

With the end of summer we have experienced some dramatic weather. The usual end of season thunder storm struck in mid September causing flooding and mayhem across the region. On the day of the storm I had a large group out and was due to lead them from the hostal at Hoya de la Mora across to the Poqueira Refuge crossing the Sierra Nevada at about 3,000m. As I drove up the mountain in the early morning it was clear that a storm was brewing with thunder and flashes of lightning around the area. The group was the first of two from the Territorial Army reservists out on an adventure training exercise. I met them and after a bit of discussion we decided that we would set off on the trip. So with most of the group wearing full waterproofs we headed out in heavy rain which surprisingly began to ease up as we climbed. By the time we reached the Carahuela refuge, a small bivouac hut below Veleta we were able to take gear off and dry out as the sun began to break through. It wasn’t until I returned home the next day I realised how big the storm had been. Lanjaron had been flooded out and suffered some damage. Other villages however had suffered much worse and further a field the storm had even caused a couple of deaths. At first it seemed strange that we had managed to do any walking at all however I realised that by being at height in the mountains meant that we had in effect been above the worst of the storm. At 3,000m, our highest point of the day there was about 2km of stormy weather between us and the villages below. This was wasn’t the first time this affect has happened to me. Much earlier in the year having left my car above Capileira I was at the Poqueira Refuge with a small group. We woke to a covering of a couple of inches of fresh snow. Even though the snow stopped falling by the time we got back down it was a couple of feet deep, meaning my car was effectively snowed in. Lesson learned. The weather over the coming season dramatically alters the nature of the Sierra Nevada and other mountain ranges in the area. Over summer, settled conditions mean that you can feel fairly safe going into the high mountains without too much worry. Winter weather conditions can turn fairly benign mountain trips into serious alpine outings where you need to be prepared for extreme conditions. Spanish forecasting has improved in the past few years so before you go out you can get a good idea of what to expect. Personally I use http://www.aemet.es for general forecasts and http://www.mountain-forecast.com for the higher peaks. Both are well worth a look.

Crowded mountains

With the heat of summer I have done quite a few trips around Veleta in the past few weeks. This peak is second highest in the Sierra Nevada and with its proximity to the Granada ski village and an area called Hoya de la Mora it is a relatively easy summit to ascend and so is perhaps the most climbed peak in the range. This was brought home to me last week when I arrived at the summit last weekend with a couple of clients. The summit of the mountain is marked by a concrete pillar and on this occasion it was crowded with a group of about fifty walkers. It was almost like getting to the summit of Snowdon. As we lunched the numbers grew as more and more walkers and cyclists arrived at the summit. It does seem that the popularity of walking in the mountains is growing. Other mid week visits have been much quieter affairs with the whole mountain empty of walkers. On those visits it is quite common to come across quite large numbers of Cabra de Montana. In late July for the first time ever I came across a young cabra kid suckling off its mother. I had never seen this before so it was great to see. A week later with a group of friends we watched as a fox circled a group of three or four cabra before they finally decided that enough was enough and they chased the fox off down the mountainside. Cabra do seem to becoming more used to walkers and in some areas particularly will allow you to get quite close before they run off. Descending Mulhacens south ridge in early August I walked within about three meters of a group of four large males who casually watched as I approached before finally getting up and sauntering off. They didn’t seem in the least worried by my presence seemingly accepting the fact that I was there in their territory. Near the Poqueira refuge cabra quite often approach the building even if you are sat out on the terrace. They seem to like licking the side of the building presumably getting essential salts to supplement their diet. Other wildlife sightings in recent trips included a couple of juvenile Golden eagles soaring above us on a trip to Pico de Jerez near Gaudix. Nearer to home we recently spotted a common genet (Genetta genetta) crossing the track below our finca as we drove up from the village one night. These animals are also known as ‘’civit cats’’ and look like a cross between a domestic cat and a large ferret.

Cool summer walking

With low level temperatures hitting the high 30's it is still possible to get some cooler walks in in the main Sierra Nevada range by taking the cable car up the southern side of Veleta. The cable car runs out of the Pradollano ski village which sits at 2,000m above Granada Initially travelling in an enclosed gondola or cable car you arrive at the Borreguiles half way station where you change on to an open chair lift for the final stretch up to 2,9000m. The ride is spectacular in its own right as it carries you over the now dry ski runs. In the past couple of years the lifts have been adapted to accommodate mountain bikes and there are now a number of down hill runs also starting from the end of the chair lifts. The lifts end at a fairly bleak area on the mountain side however a couple of great walks start from here. Most walkers head north east to follow a track uphill to los posiciones de Veleta at 3,000m. From this spot you get one of the best views in the whole of the Sierra Nevada range as you look east across the dramatic north faces of Veleta, Mulhacen and Alcazaba. From here some more confident walkers may venture down into the corall de Veleta though most will continue south along the track to the refugio de carahuela before ascending to the summit. For those who don’t want to climb as much there is also another path which starts from the end of the chair lit. Head south west after leaving the cable car and the walking is equally spectacular if perhaps a little easier. After a few minutes waymarkers bring you to the head of a path which head down through quite rugged terrain to the Embalse de las Yeguas a small man made lake used to supply water for snow machines in the ski season. From here you can head south east to explore the lagunillas de la virgin, small natural tarns where you may well find snow till quite late in the season. Returning to the embalse you can retrace your path up hill or head north west to cross a small coll below the obvious observatory building to then head down to Borreguiles. Even in high summer it will be cooler at these altitudes so it’s worth remembering that you may well need additional clothing and a waterproof jacket. The cable cars do not run when there are high wind speeds and as ever when you are venturing out you need to check the weather forecast before you head out.

Clients, the unknown element.

One of the problems I face with some clients is that I don’t really know their experience in the mountains. If they are here for a few days I do a walk on the first day that gives me some idea of what they can do and how fit they are or not. Clients who come for just one day, usually to do Mulhacen are more of a problem. With little idea of what experience people have it is a bit of a gamble. Once you get to meet people however you do get a chance to get some idea of what to expect. Most claim to have and a long experience of walking in Britain and a few well aimed questions soon confirm this. Others talk of trips to ‘’base camp’’, having done ‘’Kili’’( Kilimanjaro) or the Inca trail. In late June I had a group of three women who where here to do Mulhacen before they then headed off to Granada for a couple of days. We met in the hotel bar on the evening before and in order to get some idea of what to expect I asked about their mountaineering experience. ‘’We’ve done, Ben Nevis, Sca Fell Pike and Snowdon. Mulhacen’s not much higher than those is it?’’ I had a slight panic as I explained that whilst summits in the UK are measured in feet, Mulhacen’s height was shown in meters and as a result was more than three times the height. ‘’Will that make a big difference then?’’ was the response. We did set out the next day on the understanding that we would see how far we got. The summit was in view for most of the walk but we got nowhere near we did however have a great walk in the mountains which at the end of the day is what we went out for. I cant say to much as many years ago at a house show back in the UK I glanced at a map of Andalucia and saw a height of 3482 and presumed it was in feet and thought ‘’OK so these hills will be a bit like the Lakes’’ it was hours later dawned on me that as it was a European map it would be meters. At the other end of the client scale I have had had those who opening lines are ‘’I’m a triathlete and want to bag a few peaks’’ I then end up chasing people up and down the mountains without taking a breather. Not my idea of fun at all.

Sierra Nevada Mountain Camomile - Artemisia granatensis

Sierra Nevada Mountain Camomile

The Mountain Camomile: Artemisia granatensis is found exclusively in the Sierra Nevada in dry grassland on loose rock over 2500m.  It has traditionally been sought after and used as a medicinal plant for stomach complaints, and its reputation was such that large amounts of money were paid to obtain its benefits. Over exploitation has brought this plant to the edge of extinction and there is now a programme within the National Park to increase its population.

The Mountain Camomile: Artemisia granatensis 

Those once common, it now mainly occurs in the more inaccessible areas where the camomile pickers “manzanilleros” were not able to exploit it.

The one we didn't find!!

This week Mike and Jane from Sierra Nevada Guides decided to “have a look” for the plant using someone’s photo from the internet which gave a good idea of its general location.  Whilst descending from Veleta 3396m the 2^nd highest summit in the Sierra Nevada they chose a route via the San Juan valley which would bring them under the old observatory. However not actually carrying a copy of the photo they failed miserably.

Two days later making a traverse on Cerro de los Machos 3327m they were rewarded with seeing several plants in two separate locations.

Cold Fleabane - Erigeron frigidus

Generally the alpine flowers in the Sierra Nevada are stunning in June and July. The Sierra Nevada boasts some 86 endemic species of plants and many more endemic species of fauna.

Sierra Nevada Guides are particularly interested in the areas wildlife and are keen to share our knowledge during the walks we lead.

Sierra Nevada Guides are the only qualified British Guides (International Mountain Leaders) operating in the Sierra Nevada.

Sierra Nevada Guides are always happy to help you plan your trip to the Sierra Nevada, even if you do not use a guide (though you will have an easier time if you do!).

Refugio de Poqueira

Situated at 2,500m on the southern slopes of Mulhacen the ‘’Refugio de Poqueira’’ has in recent years become more and more popular with mountaineers and walkers. Built in the mid nineties to replace the higher Felix Mendez hut the refuge is a well appointed base for activities in the high peaks of the Sierra Nevada. With some recent improvements the refuge sleeps up to 84 people in a number of mixed dormitories on its upper floor. Below in a large airy dinning room large three course evening meals are shared out amongst that days guests by friendly and professional guardians. The main objective for most people staying overnight is undoubtedly an ascent of Mulhacen . from the refuge either the south or west ridge routes are easily accessed but it is perhaps the Rio Mulhacen/Caldera/west ridge route which is the better of the two. A technical route under winter conditions when there is steep ice and snow on the upper slopes this route comes into its own once snow clears the main faces of the mountain and it becomes a beautiful walk up an alpine river valley to a steep final ascent. As well as Mulhacen the Sierra Nevada’s two other big summits are available from the refuge. Veleta lies to the west and can be easily reached by following the old mountain road as it traverse the range at around 3,000m. To the east lies Alcazaba , an ascent from the refuge takes in Siete lagunas and involves about 1,300 m of ascent. It is perhaps though the best trip in the range and well worth the effort.

Snowshoeing in The Sierra Nevada

Snowshoeing in The Sierra Nevada

Spain’s Sierra Nevada can be an amazing place for snowshoeing during the winter months. Despite its southerly latitude and proximity to the Mediterranean Sea, its altitude can mean cold or very cold, and certainly cold enough for snow!

Snowshoeing Sierra Nevada - The Refugio Poqueira

Most winters there is enough snow to give enough itineraries to keep the snowshoeing enthusiast sufficient days out to fill a weeks itinerary, though at some points each winter it can get a little “lean” and you’ll find yourself carrying your snowshoes over some sections.

Snowshoeing Sierra Nevada - Perfect Snow and Sun!

A highlight is a snowshoe trip up to the Refugio Poqueira where you can spend a night (full hotel service) sitting beside the log fire soaking up the ambience. The snow often sits at around 1800m just above the village of Capileira 1300m.

Day 1.

Parking at a high point it is possible to snowshoe up through the forest to Hoya del Portillo 2150m which provides a good break point for lunch.

Continuing up through the forest towards Mirador Trevelez we then pick up the traversing path that leads gently through forest and then open hillsides to the Refugio Poqueira 2500m.

Day 2.

A couple of short steep climbs lead us to Alto del Chorrillo 2700m where we can pick up the broad ridge that leads back to Puerto Molino 2400m and Hoya del Portillo. Here we can take a different route back through the forest to where we started from.

Sierra Nevada Snowshoeing - Perfect Snow near Alto del Chorrillo 2700m

This snowshoe trip is undoubtedly one of the finest in the Sierra Nevada and not to be missed from any itinerary so long as there is enough snow. The best time for this trip is usually February.

The Sierra Nevada like any mountains in winter can be cold and dangerous. Before setting out ensure that you know the weather forecast is good, be equipped for winter mountaineering and have the right skills including being able to navigate in snowy mountains. If in doubt, hire a qualified guide.

Sierra Nevada Guides are three Qualified British International Mountain Leaders with an intimate knowledge of the Sierra Nevada. 

Sierra Nevada Snowshoeing - When the mist comes in, Make Sure You Can Navigate!

Sierra Nevada Guides can teach you the skills to walk safely or snowshoe in the mountains.